32 best face serums of 2023 for even-toned skin | CNN Underscored

Moisturizers, serums, essences, oils, mists: the list of “must-have” beauty products goes on. It can be hard to parse out what you actually need from what’s just a marketing ploy. But even if you don’t want to spend a lot of time or money on an exhaustive skin care routine, adding a serum might be your ticket to clear, bright, even-toned skin, dermatologists say.

“A serum is a skin care product that can deliver a high concentration of specific active ingredients directly to the skin,” says cosmetic chemist and founder of Acaderma, Dr. Shuting Hu. They’re specifically designed to target various skin care concerns like fine lines, loss of hydration and hyperpigmentation, among others,” she says. And unlike moisturizers or creams, “serums are low viscosity, so the active molecules can penetrate the skin on a deeper level compared to a cream or moisturizer,” Hu adds. “The thin, liquid texture of a serum makes it easy for it to penetrate the skin, and the high amount of concentrated actives make a serum more powerful and effective than most moisturizers or other skin care products.” In layperson’s terms, they’re like a booster for your skin.

When to use a face serum

Most serums are designed to be applied after cleansing but before moisturizer. “I consider serums part of my skin prep routine,” says makeup artist Ashleigh Ciucci. “I mist the skin, which will helps make serums and creams absorb more efficiently. A few drops of your serum will deliver anti-aging, reparative and texture benefits, depending on which you choose.” In case you needed more convincing, celebrity makeup artist Grace Pae seconds the skin-priming benefits of a serum: “For normal to drier skin types, I always use a serum because it really helps to prepare the skin for moisturizer and helps it look more plump and supple,” she says. “I usually use one to two pumps and press it into the skin gently.”

How to find the right face serum for your skin

As with any beauty product, finding the right serum means you need to figure out what you’re targeting first. “Identifying a few key issues like dark spots, dryness or fine lines will help you decide which serum is right for you,” says Hu. “It’s also important to consider what type of skin you have, whether it’s dry, oily or combination. With these two elements in mind, you can then look for a serum that works well with your skin type and also targets those key issues.”

You may even consider using multiple serums to target different skin concerns, but in this case, you’ll want to proceed with caution. Sofie Pavitt, a New York City-based esthetician and founder of Sofie Pavitt Face, says she always tells her clients “to separate their active ingredients — so if they are using a serum in their [morning] routine, their other active should be in the evening. That reduces the risk of irritation.” A skin cycling routine — in which you use active ingredients on specific days — is another way to avoid overwhelming your skin.

Celebrity dermatologist Dr. Harold Lancer, who’s worked with celebrities like Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian, has another key reminder: “Remember, you should always patch test when using a new product.” This goes for anything you put on your skin or hair, he says.

Ahead, find the best serums for every skin care concern, according to the pros.

Best anti-aging face serum

“If there’s a single ingredient that’s best known to target the signs of aging, it’s retinol. A derivative of vitamin A, retinol stimulates collagen production and encourages rapid cell turnover,” says Hu. “Retinol serums work in a few different ways: First, by stimulating collagen production, it will help to prevent wrinkles from forming while filling out any existing fine lines or wrinkles,” she says. “A retinol serum will exfoliate dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother skin underneath. It also helps to fade dark spots, sun spots and hyperpigmentation.”

The bad news? Retinol can be super irritating, especially for those with sensitive skin. Lancer recommends starting with an over-the-counter retinol serum with a relatively low percentage of the active ingredient. Start by using a retinol serum at night once per week, and gradually build up over six to eight weeks to daily use.

If retinol isn’t for you, there are alternatives to retinol that can also target fine lines, wrinkles and generally dull skin: “Niacinamide can also work to increase the production of ceramides, which maintains the skin’s protective barrier, so it’s great for anti-aging,” says Hu. Its properties are similar to that of retinol, just without the potential for irritation to occur as with retinol. Lactic or glycolic acids also help to encourage cell turnover by gently exfoliating the skin.

Acaderma Chrono Warp Restoring Essence

Acaderma

“This features edelweiss stem extract and an advanced retinol complex to lift and firm the skin while also boosting collagen production and inhibiting the production of advanced glycation end products that lead to wrinkles and dullness,” Hu says.

$90 at Acaderma

Timeline Skin Health The Serum

Timeline Skin Health

With rejuvenating ingredients like D-panthenol, niacinamide and caffeine, the real powerhouse of this anti-aging serum is Mitopure, “a revolutionary new longevity ingredient clinically proven to re-energize skin cells from the inside out to help combat both biological and environmental aging factors,” according to Corinne Briaud, head of skin health and global business unit head at Timeline Nutrition. “The result: healthy, youthful-looking skin that is full of life.”

$280 at Timeline Skin Health

Best exfoliating face serum

“Proper exfoliation should be a combination of both physical and chemical exfoliants,” says Lancer, who recommends The Method: Polish from his own line for its ability to accelerate cell turnover manually. “A chemical exfoliant should be used as well, which can be in the form of AHAs, BHAs or enzymes. Start off by exfoliating a couple of times a week, then build tolerance so exfoliation can take place daily.”

Before choosing a serum, there are a few interactions to consider: “Benzoyl peroxide [which is an AHA] should not be mixed with retinols or vitamin C, as it degrades the active ingredients and can cause irritation. Products that contain BHAs should not be used with AHAs, as they are not meant for layering and can cause dryness and irritation.” That means anything with lactic, glycolic or citric acid shouldn’t be mixed with salicylic acid or retinol.

Best face serum for dark spots

Derms universally agree that vitamin C, a naturally occurring, gentle antioxidant, is one of the most effective ingredients for evening skin tone. “Vitamin C specifically helps to protect the skin from the long-lasting effects of UV rays, reducing the appearance of sunspots, refining skin texture and lessening the appearance of existing wrinkles,” says Lancer. Look for words like “brightening” and “even toned” on the packaging, and L-asorbic acid on the label.

“Due to its high level of acidic properties, vitamin C will help promote collagen and elastin production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” Lancer says. “Vitamin C is also very popular in hyperpigmentation serums, as it inhibits the skin’s melanin production, which causes dark spots. It’s brightening and hydrating so it’s overall a very versatile product.”

Again, they both warn not to mix any vitamin C serum with retinol, so it’s best used in the morning. Because vitamin C breaks down when exposed to sunlight, it’s important to keep your serum in a dark, dry place — and to layer SPF on top.

Environ Multi-Bioactive Mela-Prep Lotion

Joanna Czech

“This face serum is great for anyone worried about sun damage, as it is used to ward off unwanted  pigmentation,” Smith says.

$88 at Joanna Czech

PillowtalkDerm Major Fade Hyper Serum

Pillowtalk Derm

Created by social media-favorite dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss, this brightening serum lives up to the hype, according to Pavitt. The facialist says it’s “great for evening out discoloration, fading hyperpigmentation and giving a glowing, dewy finish.”

$68 at PillowtalkDerm

Alastin A-Luminate Brightening Serum

Alastin

“I recommend this clinically proven, non-irritating serum for those seeking to reduce surface pigmentation and prevent future damage,” Peterson says. “It effectively minimizes various forms of discoloration, including dark spots, age spots and hyperpigmentation, while improving redness often associated with hyperpigmentation. The serum’s proprietary PATH-3 Technology not only helps prevent the recurrence of pigmentation but also promotes brighter, more luminous skin over time. The non-hydroquinone and non-retinol formula, enriched with powerful antioxidants, ensures optimal skin health and is gentle enough for daily use, making it an ideal addition to your skin care routine.”

$168 at Alastin

$168 at The Skin Savant

Best face serum for dry skin

Celebrity and editorial makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes is best known for creating looks with dewy, healthy-looking skin. Her secret? “Look for the words glow or dewy, radiant or hydrating on the bottle!” Oftentimes, that means it’s packed with niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.

You may have heard that hyaluronic acid is one of those sneaky-good molecules that holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, which means it’s great for dry skin, and Hu can confirm: “It’s one of the key molecules involved in retaining skin moisture,” she says. “As your skin loses moisture and the natural hyaluronic acid levels decrease, using a hyaluronic serum will restore this loss of moisture and also act as a magnet to attract and absorb moisture from your external environment to keep the skin plump and hydrated. After using a hyaluronic serum, follow it up with your moisturizer to seal it all in.” Lancer also notes that hyaluronic acid mixes well with most other ingredients, so it’s great to use with retinol.

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is also great for dry skin, Lancer says. “It helps build protein in the skin to lock in moisture, prevent environmental damage, minimize redness and blotchiness, treat hyperpigmentation and even treat acne.” And because fine lines and wrinkles are more likely to form when the skin is dry, hydrated skin will always look more supple and plump.

Best acne-fighting face serum

While spot treatments are a great way to topically target acne, the right serum can help maintain clear skin too. Look for calming and antibacterial ingredients, along with gentle acids. AHAs like lactic or glycolic acid can increase cell turnover and reduce pesky breakouts. Meanwhile, be careful with oil-based serums and watch out for comedogenic ingredients that can clog the pores, such as coconut oil.

Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum

Sofie Pavitt Face

Known for her transformative acne program, Pavitt’s first skin care launch is made to help clear up pesky breakouts and smooth skin texture. “The Mandelic Clearing Serum is a mandelic acid serum with large molecular weight so it’s ideal for most skin types,” Pavitt explains. “[Mandelic acid] is an AHA which dissolves the bonds between dead cells and healthy skin underneath and [the serum] is formulated with panthenol and hyaluronic acid for skin soothing and hydration.”

$54 at Sofie Pavitt Face

SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense

Dermstore

“This innovative, oil-free formula combines 2% dioic acid with an optimal blend of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, effectively reducing acne formation, unclogging pores and improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone,” Peterson says. “It offers multiple benefits, such as reduced excess sebum production, improved skin tone and decongested pores, making it an ideal choice for acne-prone, oily, combination and aging skin types.”

$106 at SkinCeuticals

$106 at Dermstore

Best face serum for sensitive skin

“The best serums for sensitive skin provide active [ingredients] that soothe and calm inflammation, alleviate dryness and redness and create a barrier against external irritations,” says Lancer. “Active ingredients that work great for sensitive skin include hyaluronic acid, bakuchiol, as well as green tea extract.”

Hu adds that those with sensitive skin should “avoid serums that contain any alcohol, fragrance or essential oils because these ingredients typically cause irritation for those with sensitive skin,” she says, adding that retinol might not be suitable for sensitive skin because it can be too aggressive. “Plant-based ingredients such as bakuchiol [are great] if you want to mimic the effects of retinol.”

Dieux Deliverance

Dieux

Pavitt says this lightweight serum “is a fantastic for irritated skin types as well as plumping fine lines and addressing uneven skin tone.”

$69 at Dieux

SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective Gel

Dermstore

Peterson recommends this serum for those “seeking a soothing and hydrating solution.” Powered by hyaluronic acid, cucumber, thyme and other botanical ingredients, the esthetician says it “not only replenishes moisture but also alleviates redness and sensitivity. It gives sensitive skin the comfort and care it needs while boosting and brightening the complexion.”

$78 at SkinCeuticals

$78 at Dermstore