Animal parade: The whimsical appeal of Chanel’s spring 2023 haute couture looks

The animals at the centre of the theme play a game of hide and seek on a number of the looks, and are subtly but cleverly incorporated into each design. Take, for example, the dog motif used to compose a houndstooth-like motif, delicately outlined deer standing amid trees in a forest, and rhinestone cats seemingly camouflaged by colourful swirls of sequins. In fact, one might miss them if they weren’t told where exactly on each outfit to spot them.

Worth noting is the fact that petticoats are a key component of many of the looks, even if they are not visible. Worn underneath skirts and dresses, they provide that all-important volume and flare characteristic of the majorette uniform.

Elsewhere, volume is created via massive amounts of flounces and days of painstaking work by the masters at Chanel’s metiers d’art ateliers. On one dress, it took 120 metres of soft tulle gathered and laid in scrolls to create the flounced layers that adorn its bottom, while another dress with a full, ballgown-style long skirt required the use of a whopping 1,350 flounces, 750 circles of different sizes and 70 metres of organza in total.

The fresh and youthful vibe may, at first glance, belie the intricate work that went into these haute couture creations. But the attention to details and exceptional skills that they took are at once evident on a closer look, not least the playful takes on the animal iconography that was the starting point to it all.