Best vitamin C serums 2023 UK — Expert picks and how to use them
Looking for a sure-fire way to ramp up your glow after a long, dreary winter that’s left your skin dull and dry? Call off the search. Because the best vitamin C serums will provide the antioxidants your skin needs to rediscover its mojo.
Be it for pregnancy hyperpigmentation, dark spots or simply pallid, lacklustre skin, a vitamin C laced product holds the power to brighten and even out your skin tone.
But don’t just take our word for it. Below, cosmetic doctor, Dr Sophie Shotter reveals why vitamin C should be your new skincare BFF and dispels some common misconceptions about the potent ingredient.
Plus, the Women’s Health Lab has researched and tested the best vitamin C face serums for every skin type and sensitivity, so you can add the one that’s right for you to your routine, stat.
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Do dermatologists recommend vitamin C serum?
Derms agree that vitamin C is one of the most important steps in any skincare routine, following happily behind SPF and thorough cleansing. Not only that, but if you want your complexion to truly reap the benefits of vitamin C, more can be achieved if you apply it topically rather than ingesting it.
Dr Shotter explains: ‘Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, helping your skin fight free radical damage from sunlight and pollution. It also helps boost collagen production, keeping skin firmer and healthier.’
In terms of brightening, this super vitamin blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for accelerating melanin production (if left unchecked, this can lead to dark spots). It also breaks down over-pigmented cells on the skin’s surface, giving you that sought-after glow without altering your normal pigmentation.
In short, vitamin C is great, but don’t expect an overnight miracle. ‘By 12 weeks, most people will be seeing a good result, but many start to notice improvements from four weeks onwards,’ says Dr Shotter.
How do I choose a good vitamin C serum?
Before buying a vitamin C serum, decide whether the concentration is right for you (see our suggested percentages for the main skin types, below), and consider which form it comes in.
‘L-ascorbic acid is the most active, effective form of vitamin C and is the one I’d look for in the ingredients list,’ says Dr Shotter.
Take note of its packaging, too — recyclable is always a good thing, but most importantly, the bottles should be dark and airless to keep the formula from reacting to light and oxygen. Some brands suggest storing their serums in the fridge to prolong their shelf life, but always read the label.
Is vitamin C serum suitable for sensitive skin?
The acidity of vitamin C may irritate sensitive skin, so start with a low percentage serum and build up (the same applies to beginners). Here’s a guide to help you find your level.
- Sensitive skin may only need a 5% formulation.
- The average skin type can benefit from 10-15%.
- Oilier skin may need 20%.
‘Research suggests there is no additional benefit to using higher percentages than this,’ says Dr Shotter. ‘Vitamin C is acidic in pH, so it can tingle, but if it’s burning then the formulation is probably too strong for your skin type.’
Is it OK to use vitamin C serum every day?
Go for it! But maximise its benefits by applying it in the morning — that way it can protect against those pesky free radicals when you’re out and about, and form a power couple with your SPF.
‘Vitamin C will work synergistically with your sunscreen to improve your skin’s protection from sunlight,’ explains Dr Shotter. ‘However, I suggest those with sensitive skin build up their tolerance by using it on alternate days at first.’
To apply your chosen serum, dab small amounts over your cheeks, forehead, chin and nose before massaging it in with your fingertips. Do this after cleansing and toning, but before applying anything creamy in texture, so that it can sink into your skin more readily.
What not to mix with vitamin C
Dr Shotter advises against mixing vitamin C with skincare acids such as AHAs and BHAs. ‘Vitamin C is an acid in its own right, and the two acids could change each other’s properties and performance, as well as causing irritation,’ she says.
‘For example, acne treatment benzoyl peroxide can oxidise vitamin C and, even though you may not see a reaction, it would potentially reduce its effectiveness.’
On the flip side, Dr Shotter notes that vitamin C works even better in conjunction with other antioxidants such as vitamin E. Result!
How we test
Our experts have sifted through a sea of vit C serums to find their A* formulations. Our panel of over 270 beauty testers tried 18 products for four weeks, looking for improvements in skin pigmentation and a renewed sense of radiance. They fed back on each product’s texture, ease of use, packaging design and, of course, performance.
In the Women’s Health Lab, our pros used a VISIA Skin Analysis machine to measure any differences in skin pigmentation and redness before and after use. So, which serums helped testers take a step in the bright direction?
