Burberry Shifts Its Strategy in Japan – Burberry Shifts Its Strategy in Japan Burberry, the icon – Studocu

Burberry Shifts Its Strategy in Japan

Burberry,

the

icon

British

luxury

apparel

company

best

known

for it

s high-fashion

outwear,

has

been

operating

in

Japan

for

nearly

half

a

century.

Until

recently,

its

branded

products

were

sold

under

a

licensing

agreement

with

Sanyo

Shokai.

The

Japanese

company

had

considerable

discretion

as

to

how

it

utilized

the

Burberry

brand.

It

sold

everything

from

golf

bags

to

miniskirts

and

Burberry-clad

Barbie

dolls

in

its

400

s

tores

around

the

country,

typically

at

prices

significantly below those Burberry charged for its high-end products in the United Kingdom.

For

a

long

time,

it

looked

like

a

good

deal

for

Burberry.

Sanyo

Shokai

did

all

of

the

market

development

in Japan,

generating

revenues

of

around

$800 million

a

year

and

paying Burberry

$80

million

in

annual

royalty

payments.

However,

by

2007,

Burberry’s

CEO,

Angela

Ahrendts,

was

becoming

increasingly

dissatisfied

with

the

Japanese

licensing

deal

and

22

others

like

it

in

countries

around

the

world.

In

Ahrendts’s

view,

the

licensing

deals

were

diluting

Burberry’s

core

brand

image.

Licensees

such

as

Sanyo

Shokai

were

selling

a

wide

range

of

products

at

a

much

lower

price

point

than

Burberry

charged

for

products

in

its

own

stores.

“In

luxury,”

Ahrendts

once

re-

marked,

“ubiquity

will

kill

you—it

means

that

you’re

not

really

luxury

anymore.”

Moreover,

with

an

increasing

number

of

customers

buying

Burberry

products

online

and

on

trips

to

Britain,

where

the

brand

w

as

considered

very

upmarket,

Ahrendts

felt

that

it

was crucial for Burberry to tightly control its global brand image.

Ahrendts was determined to rein

in licensees and re-

gain control of Burberry’s sales

in foreign

markets,

even

if

it

means

taking

a

short-term

hit

to

sales.

She

started

off

the

process

of

terminating licensees before leaving Burberry to

run Apple’s retail division

in 2014. Her hand-

picked

successor

as

CEO,

Christopher

Bailey,

who

rose

through

the

design

function

at

Burberry,

has

continued

to

pursue

this

strategy.

In

Japan,

the

license

was

terminated

in

2015.

Sanyo Shokai was

required to close

nearly 400 licensed

Burberry stores. Burberry

is not giving

up

on

Japan,

however.

After

all,

Japan

is

the

world’s

second-largest

market

for

luxury

goods.

Instead, the company will now sell

products through a limited number of

wholly owned stores.

The

goal is

to

have

35

to

50

stores

in

the

most

exclusive

locations

in

Japan

by

2018.

They

will

offer

only

high-end

products, such

as

Burberry’s

classic

$1,800

trench

coat. In

general,

the

price

point

will

be

10

times

higher

than

was

common

for

most

Burberry

products

in

Japan.

The

company realizes

the move

is risky

and fully

expects sales

to init

ially fall

before rising

again as

it

rebuilds

its

brand,

but

CEO

Bailey

argues

that

the

move

is

absolutely

necessary

if

Burberry

is

to have a coherent global brand image for its luxury products.