CK Free Calvin Klein cologne – a fragrance for men 2009
Received this as a gift rather soon after it came out (sometime in 2010). I tried it initially (a few times), and felt it was a rather good, but mainstream CK offering with some decent notes (albeit somewhat synthetic)…but not off-putting in any way. I found it to be a nice green, aromatic woody scent – a bit nondescript, but something entirely wearable. Was I hoping for more? Not sure – I actually was a bit embarrassed as I had acquired some Vintage fragrances just prior to receiving this. I am not sure my sense of gratefulness came across. You see, I tend to have disdain for current CK fragrances and formulations – but something is going on here. I put on a fake smile at the time and tried it…later and alone.
It got put into a box I have for Spring/Summer scents (as it was cooler weather then) and I pulled it out twice last year – actually, surprisingly liking it even a bit more. It was moved into the bottom of a drawer that I keep – for scents that I “remind myself to revisit”. It is a totally inoffensive casual scent that one sprays on liberally – initially, I saw it as a warm-weather scent (but cooler weather works just as well actually, including rain which K1 picked up on…but not cold). This is something to wear to the store, out to visit with friends, weekends, and just around the house (as I’m typing this).
Why would I take the time to write a review on CK Free? I am oddly compelled to do so. Mainly, because of what my friend, K1, wrote below. He transcended notes, scent pyramids and the typical mundane review and instead, evoked excellent imagery with a rather cheap Calvin Klein offering. Excellent!
And, then, second is because the nose behind this, Rodrigo Flores-Roux. He has created some amazing compositions that reign superior and I have been enamored by his creative use of unique ingredients, harmonious bottling and his ability to make a flacon’s (whether it be simple or stylized) purpose to be the juice inside. Too much is stylized today. His bottles for Tom Ford are exquisite and top-shelf in quality (and price!) – but it is his work with John Varvatos’ line that brought me to him. The person who bought this for me later admitted knowing this was a bottle produced by the same nose of John Varvatos’ creations – of which I had been wearing for a while (JV for Men and Vintage with the excellent After Shave balms for layering) and just fell in love with Artisan (the gorgeous fragrance it is to me)!! Rodrigo Flores-Roux was someone I was now watching and soon picked up Artisan Black, which is in my rotation as well.
Here is the key to Rodrigo Flores-Roux’s creations – it doesn’t take a trained nose to appreciate them as they are wonderful and fragrant, but it does take a trained nose and palate to “understand” them. Less so here – as this is the only CK bottle he has ever made. I have to say…it is a solid bottle of fragrance. My only complaint with the John Varvatos line is longevity. That is the only drawback here.
I like how this goes on. Nice, aromatic and slightly “green” notes and fruit on top (wormwood, a touch of star anise, and a light fruit note in the top listed as jackfruit, and the fragrant juniper berry)…a very nice opening. Inviting.
The middle is mostly suede – both in “feeling” (smooth) and scent with nice blended nuances of coffee and tobacco leaf, neither being loud at all. I actually pick up the patchouli (which is nice here – not a dark and deep patchouli at all, but a much greener one that is a touch earthy but more herbaceous). Very nice. Patchouli (actually from the mint family) is a very commonly used note in fragrance, but has a broad range of smell – from nearly clean and lifted to deep, dark and smoky. It depends on when it is harvested and how the essential oil is extracted through fermentation and distillation. The wood notes are well-integrated here with cedar and oak blended well.
In typical Flores-Roux style, interesting and unique notes are brought into the composition (jackfruit and wormwood in the top, buchu is listed in the heart and ironwood is listed in the base). I cannot lend an olfactory perspective to those notes, but then again, even if it is a small quantity, they were included because they sound exotic and possibly create a subtle touch that perhaps alters the notes we commonly know – like cedar and oak.
My final thought is this…while it doesn’t have good longevity on my skin, this is about pure enjoyment of scent. There are no fixatives here that extend the life (just a couple hours or so for me in a full wearing). If this had a strong vanilla or amber base, it would stay for hours longer. I’m glad it doesn’t. I have several woody aromatics that cost more than this, but offer about the same in both projection and longevity – I am fine with that. A layered application helps (spray liberally and then 15-20 minutes later, reapply more to the same spots and so it saturates) plus wear on clothing to project more. Not a loud scent – but I like that. Intimate. Confident. Masculine & inviting.
Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a top perfumer and highly-regarded. Calvin Klein was very lucky to have him produce a bottle for their line. The more I wear this, the more I like it. It actually has less of a synthesized feel than before. In my opinion, a scent that I kept in “that” drawer for a reason – this needed to be revisited! It will definitely be worn more this summer and fall – for pure enjoyment…sometimes out and, more often, around the house. A better release than virtually everything from CK – period. The only one I prefer to this (in current production) is Escape for Men, but in an entirely different way. The Original Vintage Calvin by Calvin Klein (1981) is still the greatest from this house…of all time.
Very decent bottle of scent here and one that stands head & shoulders above the rest currently out there with a CK on the label, in my humble opinion.
Scent – 7.5+/10; Projection – 6/10; Longevity – 5/10.