Fragrance Review: Chanel – Allure (EdP)
⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 3.5 out of 5.
Ah, Allure. My least favourite Chanel bottle design, holding such a rich, intricate warm floral that’s sooo 90’s it feels like an olfactive version of cappucchino-brown lipstick & nude eyeshadow.
I know the Eau de Toilette came first, in 1996 (and I shall re-sniff and review it when I have a chance); but the 1999’s Eau de Parfum enchanted me more – so much, I got myself a small bottle for my birthday, a couple of years ago… even if wishing it also looked like the Nº5 one.
So, this being the version I’m by far most familiar with… I’ll talk about it first. 🙂
Mục lục
Review
Not very unlike other big florals of its era², the first spray of Allure EdP comes as a punch on the nose – and I admit, I’m not a big fan of this stage of the fragrance. There are no aldehydes listed among the notes, but I dare suspect they’re there – far less prominent than in Nº5, but still giving Allure a soapy, slightly old-fashioned, unmistakably Chanel vibe. If you’re not a fan of the perfume-y effect, though, don’t let this scare you off just yet. In a few minutes, Allure mellows.
Instead of following a traditional pyramid style, the notes in Allure swirl around all at once, changing in focus as the scent develops¹. The main stars are juicy peach and warm vanilla (both sweet and creamy, yet completely unedible, so no gourmand vibes here), and a duo of luminous jasmine and delicate rose. Fresh lily of the valley, watery peony and lemony magnolia also peek around the rich bouquet, along with a vetiver-fronted woodyness, which balances the main nectary notes and grounds the scent. Different from most modern florals, there’s no musk in sight in this perfume – so, if you happen not to be a fan of this very common note, this might be one for you to try!
Sillage and lasting power are very good – maybe too good, dare I say, in the first half hour, intensity-wise… Allure does calm down, however, and from the 4-8 hours mark it mellows into a softer scent.
Allure EdP, like its Eau de Toilette predecessor, was composed by perfumer Jacques Polge.
Fragrance Impressions
Notes: Mandarin orange, peach, vanilla, rose, jasmine, bergamot, orange blossom, magnolia, peony, lotus, vetiver, cedar.
Colour Impression: A warm, slightly brown-tinted shade of Peach.
Evokes: A happy, warm hug; cinnamon-brown lipstick; peach-coloured velvet.
Similar to: Dior Joy; Dolce&Gabbana The One; Lancôme Trésor; Jean Paul Gaultier Classique.
Season & Occasion: Autumn-winter.
Conclusion
Allure EdP is dense yet graceful, with a round, peachy, aldehydic-soapy finish. It seems to change ever so slightly every time you catch a whiff of it, intricate and sparkling like brocade, plush like crushed velvet. Like Nº5, it sits in a charming spot between elegance and warmth, although it does so in an even more approachable, relaxed (if still semi-formal) way.
On the down side, I find the opening a bit brash, and the florals, a tad too bright³… so it does require cold weather not to overwhelm me. The drydown, though, is lovely, with a cheerfulness that I really like!
Fans of modern scents might find this one a tad dated, but don’t let the first spray set your opinion; if you like Dior Joy, Allure‘s drydown might surprise you as a close contestant. For those who love the 90’s bold warm florals, or peachy-vanillic compositions in general (such as Dolce&Gabbana The One), Allure is also very worth a try.
I keep hoping this classic will someday be re-bottled in the beautiful style of its siblings Nº5, Nº19, Coco & Co…
¹ Other (very) different-smelling but similarly-structured fragrances include Mugler Angel, and the Prada Infusion line.
² Namely Hermès 24 Faubourg, Lancôme Trésor and Poême, and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique.
³ I blame the lily of the valley… it’s not the easiest note to my nose, I’m afraid.
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