Fragrance Review: Chanel – N°5 (Eau de Parfum)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
Chanel N°5. The most famous perfume in the world. The cliché. The legend. Entire books have been written about this pillarstone fragrance, and this small review will be just my humble personal 2 (s)cents! 😉
Before anything else, let’s address the elefant in the room: do I think Chanel N°5 is really all that? Is it worthy of all the fame and praise it receives?
Short answer: Yes.
Long answer…
Mục lục
Review
The original Chanel Nº5 was created in 1921 by Ernest Beaux, in Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette and Parfum concentrations¹. The Eau de Parfum we have today (the version I’ll focus this review on) is a re-creation of the classic scent, and was composed by Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge, in 1986.
As typical of Chanel, Nº5 has an extremely smooth blend that makes notes hard to pick apart, but form a complex whole. The aldehydes, which are the signature feature here, are obvious from the start, soapy and intense. Right along come Nº5‘s rich florals. No flower sticks out individually, but they all contribute with their best features to form an opulent bouquet – with sweet and fuzzy ylang ylang, velvety rose, deep jasmine and a hint of iris powderyness dominating the accord. The base follows suit, with several notes (lead by sandalwood) also lending it a warm, grounded and very slightly woody finish.
If you look carefully, you start to pick hints of these single elements – a wisp of neroli; a sweet drop of peach; a bitter, green touch of moss… Yet, these notes sing together in perfect tune, like the harmony of many voices in a choir.
Artistically, I see why Chanel Nº5 is considered a masterpiece. It’s flawlessly well-blended, layered and unique. It’s fascinating how each whiff of this perfume reveals a new beautiful nuance of its smooth, classic whole, and despite feeling familiar, it never gets boring.
…And I can also see why many people (especially younger people) may feel that, despite being very pleasant, this scent can be challenging to wear. Aldehydes are no longer in vogue²; Nº5 is often associated with older generations; and it is a heavy scent.
Personally, I think this is a gorgeous fragrance, and one of the most artistical in mainstream perfumery. It won’t fit everyone’s taste and personality (like any perfume!), but it has a place of honour in my “best fragrances I’ve tried” list. It is classic, powerful, mature, elegant and tender. A perfect balance for a unique, timeless scent.
Fragrance Impressions
Notes: (Top) Aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, peach, ylang ylang; (Heart) Rose, jasmine, iris, lily of the valley; (Base) Sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, vanilla, patchouli.
Colour Impression: A rich, creamy beige.
Evokes: A cashmere coat with a big, fuzzy collar; the fancy crowd in a symphonic concert; the Opera Garnier main staircase.
Similar to: Lanvin Arpège³; Hermès 24 Faubourg; Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue.
Season & Occasion: Autum-Winter. Nice for day, perfect for night. Polished, formal.
Conclusion
Chanel Nº5 is a dense fragrance, and its soapy, “perfume-y” aldehydes may feel a bit hard to wear nowadays… Yet, the more times I revisit it, the more I like it. I suppose, like opera, classic perfumes can be a bit of an acquired taste, as their dramatic compositions feel overwhelming at first, but become fascinating as you get used to their rich nuances.
Of course, many people just don’t like Nº5 (or opera) at all, and that’s ok! I dislike many other famous and/or highly regarded perfumes, like Guerlain Jicky or Mugler Alien. So, if Chanel Nº5 is not your style, never feel like “you should” like it. There are many other fragrances around, in many other styles, and that’s the beauty of perfume!
But, if like me, you do like it, but feel it’s “too much”, or too classic to pull off… I highly reccomend you try Nº5‘s beautiful flankers: powdery-citrusy L’Eau and vanillic Eau Premiére. Both (L’Eau in particular) are less aldehydic than the EdP, and lighter, more contemporary in style – while keeping the unique, beautiful core of Chanel Nº5.
¹ In perfumery, different concentrations are rarely, if ever, “watered down” versions of a same scent – don’t be fooled by S.A.s telling you otherwise, I politely say they’re mistaken. There are always differences, subtle as they may be. In the case of Nº5, compared to the EdP, the Eau de Toilette is noticeably more crisp and transparent (although not really “light”), as well as fresher and soapier. The cologne has been discontinued many years ago, and the perfume concentration I didn’t yet have a chance to try.
² Although I’d gladly see them making a comeback and taking the spotlight from *ugh* red berries.
³ I’ve never tested Lanvin Arpège, so I normally wouldn’t list it… But I’ve seen so many people comparing it to Chanel Nº5 online, I think I can say with certain confidence, these two *must be* similar.
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