Here’s why you should add hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine, pronto

It’s likely you’re already familiar with hyaluronic acid – and if not, news flash, you’re probably already using it in your skincare routine. The name sounds a little dubious, but it’s actually one of the most harnessed ingredients for hydrating and plumping. However, while hyaluronic acid might be a major buzzword in the industry, there’s a lot of miscommunication and simplification around how to effectively use hyaluronic acid and which formulas are worth investing in. To cut any confusion, we called upon the experts to explain the real science behind what hyaluronic acid is and why you need it in your skincare routine, asap.

What is hyaluronic acid?

‘Hyaluronic acid (or HA for short) is a carbohydrate polymer that occurs naturally in your body as part of the extracellular matrix,’ says Dr Mary Sommerlad, consultant dermatologist at Vichy. ‘The extracellular matrix is the environment that surrounds your skin, muscles, bones and nerve cells to keep these structures supported and cushioned,’ she adds. Hyaluronic acid has a very unique capability to retain more than 1,000 times its weight in water; however, as we age our body’s natural ability to produce hyaluronic acid depletes which causes our skin to lose hydration and elasticity.

The good news is that today’s scientifically formulated innovations can reduce moisture loss, and when applied topically, will leave your skin feeling hydrated and fortified. And – in case you didn’t naturally assume – you’ll be pleased to know that the hyaluronic acid you buy as a skincare ingredient is not actually derived from humans. Phew.

What does hyaluronic acid do for your skin?

‘HA has an incredible ability to hold huge volumes of water,’ says Dr Sommerlad. ‘Some studies quote that per 1 gram can hold up to 6 litres of water,’ she adds. However, there’s more: Dr Sommerlad explains that not only is HA an effective storer of H20, but as a humectant it can draw moisture directly from the environment to itself. A great way to think of this ingredient is like a sponge: it soaks up all the moisture from its surroundings to help hydrate your skin further – clever, eh?

‘HA has three key benefits: it keeps the skin hydrated thus feeling supple and looking more radiant, it temporarily plumps skin by retaining moisture which reduces the appearance of fine lines, and it’s an antioxidant meaning it can tackle free radicals generated by the sun and pollution,’ explains Dr Sommerlad. ‘When you use hyaluronic acid topically, you should notice a dewy and fresh complexion as it’s able to moisturise the skin almost instantly,’ explains Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist at CeraVe.

What skin types can use hyaluronic acid?

HA is a bit of a catch-all skincare ingredient meaning that everyone can reap its benefits. ‘Even those with sensitive or blemish-prone skin can use hyaluronic acid as it’s not an occlusive, meaning there are no oils or fats in its structure,’ explains Dr Sommerlad.

While we could all do with a bit of additional moisture, Dr Sommerlad says that if you have an active lifestyle (i.e., you participate in lots of outdoor activities) you should invest in a HA serum as your skin is likely to be dehydrated. However, above all, she stresses the importance of using HA as your skin matures. Look at the back of any decent anti-ageing skincare product and you’ll likely see hyaluronic acid (or sodium hyaluronate) high up on the INCI list. ‘When you age your skin becomes dryer, which increases the visibility of fine lines; HA will temporarily correct this,’ explains Dr Sommerlad.

How should you effectively use hyaluronic acid?

‘HA is best applied onto freshly cleansed, slightly damp skin to maximise its exposure to moisture,’ explains Dr Sommerlad. As HA is a humectant, it can soak up H20 from its environment; however, if there is little water in the air, it will draw the moisture from your skin instead, causing it to feel even drier. When you add moisture to the skin, it gives the HA something to absorb and hold onto, hence why it should be applied post-cleanse and ideally after a refreshing face mist to really amp up the moisture. Once you’ve layered on your serum, go in with a moisturiser to lock in hydration and prevent it from escaping throughout the day.

The best hyaluronic acid serums to try, according to the experts

If you’re ready to introduce hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine, we’ve pulled together the best formulas worth trying – there’s a budget hero that Dr Granite recommends for acne-prone skin, a new innovation for advanced hydration and a cult formula that will keep your barrier in check too. So no matter your budget or preference, our verdict on the best hyaluronic acid serums is here to get you one step closer to softer, hydrated skin.