NEW Bleu de Chanel Parfum – Handsomely Grown-Up ~ Fragrance Reviews

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The luxe fragrances by Chanel traditionally differ depending on the concentration, and this difference is not only noticeable in their strength and eventually in the balance that might occur when changing the percentage of the perfume concentrate. Chanel fragrances smell rather different in Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Parfum variation, and the perfumers do this absolutely deliberately. I for one appreciate this strategy of Chanel.

Each fragrance becomes more individually tailored, because it is not “the same, but stronger,” like it is usually done, but its very character changes. Personally, I prefer most Eau de Toilette and Parfum concentrations of the fragrances by Chanel. The Eaux de Parfum often come as a sort of testing ground, usually as more rounded and warmer/softer versions of the Eaux de Toilette, but since I like the experimental sides – the “corners and roughness” – of the originals, I generally stick with those.

The new Bleu de Chanel Parfum differs quite significantly from its previous versions. I would suggest to give it a try, especially if the original Bleu de Chanel (2010) and its second attempt (2014) have left you unexcited.

Bleu de Chanel has stirred up a very animated discussion; people who anticipated a perfume in the typical Chanel style have been extremely disappointed by its light and simple, trendy character (or lack of one).

Nevertheless, Bleu de Chanel was a great new step for the brand, which, after so many years, had tried to revive its old signature Allure Homme, without much success. Bleu de Chanel does not lean on any of the old Chanel olfactory themes or names; sometimes heritage can be more of a burden than a glorious foundation, too heavy and old-fashioned to drag to the new era.

So finally, Chanel has created an answer to a frequently asked question: What’s new for men by Chanel? A vacant place has been filled – Chanel introduced the new masculine signature Bleu de Chanel. Comparing this strategy to its competitor Dior, I find it more appealing: a new chapter instead of re-writing old ones multiple times.

The major difference between the original Bleu de Chanel Eau de Toilette and its successor Eau de Parfum, is in the course of their development: the first one remains airy fresh with its zingy grapefruit-ginger motif, and the second unfurls into an opposite, warm direction. The amber drags the mint into the spotlight, and it acquires a strange anise-like, uneasy sweet and spicy tone. It could be considered as an interesting twist, of course, depending on one’s taste, but for me it is an obvious disadvantage.

The Eau de Parfum becomes powdery and even lipsticky at some point, much more musky, spicy, and eventually “richer”, but its original airy and sparkling quality of the citrus and ginger pairing – the major and only virtue – has been lost. They aimed for making it better, but as you know, very often perfect is the enemy of good.

The Eau de Toilette is attractive by its monolithic structure, it remains refreshing, even when it gets softer after a while. Its simple construction nonetheless is smartly executed, it does not sink into a modern layer of woody musks, nor does it collapse under the pressure of the common beauty of warm & sweet additions, like in the EDP. It stays breezy.

Finally Bleu de Chanel Parfum has been introduced. Its main bait is illustrated at the picture above – more wood (sandal and cedar), which is nothing groundbreaking; it was quite expected after the “woodier” EDP. But to my nose, the wood, even reinforced, would not have been as remarkable without another clever inclusion: the one of lavender and geranium. They provide a brilliant support, or you could say aromatic, camphorous wings to all the warm, woody and spicy elements, and instead of lingering, it makes them boldly soar.

After a loud initial scream, the citruses are pushed into the background, mint becomes as quiet as a mouse, while the mighty aromatic newcomers set a new tone to everything. They infuse a certain fougere acutance to the initial chypre-like build, a mild floral sweetness, and, most importantly, they graciously fortify the woody character of the fragrance, which was rather blurred in the EDP. The woods have become noble without faking it by reaching for the powder and pomade from the chest of the nonexistent grand ancestors of Bleu de Chanel (which happens in the eau de parfum).

I anticipate protest of those dissatisfied by the whole Bleu de Chanel idea. Yes, it can be determined as a major Chanel failure, depending on one’s point of view, and one’s perfume experience. Actually, watching the Bleu de Chanel video is very useful for a better understanding of the new direction of Chanel.

A beautiful and stylish rich lady in a pompous environment is the embodiment of what is usually expected from Chanel (tradition!), but the hero Gaspard Ulliel chooses an adventure and spontaneity.

The look of Bleu de Chanel Parfum is at a high level. It’s almost black, with a fascinating hint of blue, which you can more guess than see. Matt silver letters have become matt golden, or, to be more precise, bronze.