[REVIEW] Some By Mi AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum (Before and After) — DEWILDESALHAB武士

🍏In-Depth Details Of Interesting Ingredients:

Centella Asiatica Extract (14.51%): Wound healing (promotes collagen production) + hypertrophic scar healing properties in particular

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil: Antioxidant + Emollient 🔴*Might not be suitable for acne-prone skin: a couple of studies found a correlation between Oleic Acid (The main fatty acid component of olive oil) and acne formation.

Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in the skin and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water (10,000Ppm): Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil: is known to have anti-acne properties (due to being Antibacterial, Antifungal, and Antiviral). The water extract is not well researched when it comes to its topical application on the skin, usually, water extracts of plants have the same properties of their oil counterpart but in less potent forms.

Niacinamide: Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory (reductions in the total sebaceous creation of lipids; overproduction is one of the causes of acne)

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green tea): Antioxidant (Polyphenol) + Anti-inflammatory (Polyphenol) + Antimicrobial (Catechins)

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract: Antioxidant (Flavonoids baicalein, Oroxylin A, and Wogonin) + Anti-inflammatory (Inhibits substances and growth factor related to macrophage proliferation) + Antimicrobial (flavonoids and phenolic acids) + Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin is formed activity of Tyrosinase)

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (Japanese Knotweed): Prevents hyper-pigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase) + Antimicrobial ( inhibits bacterial and fungi proliferation) + Antioxidant (Resveratrol BT) + Anti-inflammatory (Resveratrol BT)

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract: Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase)

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Terpenes/Flavonoids/α-bisabolol  inhibit inflammatory pathways) + Wound Healing

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol, exhibit anti-inflammatory activities in particular acne-causing pathogens response) + Antioxidant (Rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid)

Citric Acid + Glycolic Acid (3000Ppb) + Lactic Acid (3000Ppb) + Malic Acid (3000Ppb) + Tartaric Acid (100Pppm): All of these are forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), which are a class of acids that reduce cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin (decrease cellular bond between corneocytes) which leads to an exfoliating effect. AHAs have also been shown to increase the production of mucopolysaccharides and collagen in the skin. [Anti-Acne + Anti-Aging + Brightening + Antioxidative]

Pyruvic Acid (500Ppb)

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract (100 Ppm): Antioxidant (Polyphenols) + Anti-inflammatory (Flavonoids)

Lactobionic Acid (100 Ppm): A next-generation AHA (called PHA, Polyhydroxy Acids), data suggest it is less likely to irritate the skin as the molecules it is composed of are bigger

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract: Not enough research concerning topical application.

Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract: Antimicrobial + Antifungal + Antioxidant

Syringa Vulgaris Extract: Antioxidant + Anti-inflammatory

Houttuynia Cordata Extract:  Antibiotic + Anti-inflammatory + Anti-oxidative + has commonly been used in Eastern Asian countries such as Japan as a topical treatment against puss-containing skin diseases including furuncle due to its high anti-microbial activity.

Angelica Keiskei Extract: Could potentially prevent hyperpigmentation (Decreases melanin-forming activity of Tyrosinase)

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract: Not enough research concerning topical application.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol, exhibit anti-inflammatory activities, in particular, acne-causing pathogen response) + Antioxidant (Rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid)

Madecassoside: Derivative of Centella Asiatica. Acts as an Antioxidant

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil: Antioxidant + Could potentially prevent hyperpigmentation

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil: Antioxidant (Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, and Oryzanol) + Emollient (Polysaccharides and Omega-3 fatty acids)

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Seed Oil: Green tea leaf extract is known to be a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial compound, but there is a difference between the leaf and seed extracts of plants. Green tea seed oil is not well researched when it comes to its topical application on the skin, but since seeds typically have some of the properties of the plants that they birth, this is probably a promising ingredient with very similar properties to that of its leaf constituent.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil: Antioxidant (Vitamin E & Carotenoids) + Emollient (Fatty Acids)

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil: Contains vitamin E, A, and monounsaturated fatty acids. These compounds act as antioxidants and moisturizers, but there isn’t enough research concerning the topical application of this oil on the skin to draw any sound claims.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil (Meadowfoam): Emollient + Antioxidant

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract: Antioxidant (polyphenols) + Anti-inflammatory + Wound healing

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract: Antibacterial + Antifungal + Anti-inflammatory

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract: Antifungal  (hydroxycoumarin) + Anti-inflammatory (Monoterpenes)

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract: Not enough studies are made on its topical application to the skin.

Pearl Powder: Might potentially help with wound healing as it contains elements (calcium carbonate, amino acids, and trace elements, etc.,) that are nutritious to cells (this study). But not enough studies are made on its topical application to the skin.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil: Antioxidant + Source of vitamins A, C, and E + 🔴Contains Oleic acid, which is a good emollient, but some studies found a correlation between it and acne formation. Do note however that the studies were made on higher amounts of Oleic Acid than those present in Moringa Oleifera.

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract (Tulsi): Antioxidant + Anti-inflammatory + Anti-aging (Inhibition of hyaluronidase (degrades hyaluronic acid) and MMP-1 (these contribute to wrinkles formation and inadequate wound repair if overexpressed))

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/ Leaf Extract: Wound healing + Antioxidant + Anti-bacterial + Anti-inflammatory

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil: Antibacterial + Antioxidant + Potentially Anti-acne (it reduces sebum production)

Frankincense Oil: Anti-inflammatory (Expression of inflammatory proteins are lowered) + 🔴Decreases expression of Collagen type III – the article suggests that this ability might decreases scar formation or wound persistence, however, conflicting data exists: the precise operation of Collagen type III during wound healing is not well known, and while it has been proven that a decrease in its expression does decrease wound persistence (in mice, in this article), data suggests this decrease might lead to an accumulation of scar tissue (In the mice article, and also here). Do note that this ingredient is present in very low concentration in this formulation*

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil: Antimicrobial + Antioxidant