Review: Skin1004 – Madagascar Centella Ampoule. What is Centella Asiatica and what does it do?
Where to purchase: Available on Stylevana: LINK / Yesstyle: LINK / iHerb: LINK
Price: ~£18
Volume: 100ml
Made in: South Korea
What is it?: An Ampoule that contains 100% Centella Asiatica Extract (From Madagascar)
What does it do, According to the Brand: This ampoule helps to repair a damaged Skin barrier while providing both moisture + balance. Cica Extract strengthens the skin’s barrier to promote healthier looking and feeling skin.
Supposedly Good for: All Skin Types
What I think: I would agree all skin types could use this (especially Sensitised Skins), however Oily-Combo Skins may prefer this over Dry Skins since it’s so lightweight + thin. Also, I think those in Hot and Humid Weather Would prefer this over Dry Weather.
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Vegan?: Yes
Cruelty Free?: Yes
Packaging: Glass Bottle with a dropper (This feels expensive). As you can see, this also has that small plastic cap inside at the tip which reduces product waste + spillage. Also, the Tip of the dropper is L-shaped which prevents spilling and enables an easier application.
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You can see the L-Shaped curve of the dropper
Directions: After cleansing, apply 2-3 drops on the face and pat gently for better absorption.
How I use it: I use this specifically when the skin is sensitised (stings and everything irritates it) as this is one of the few products I have that doesn’t sting. I reach for this, the Inkey List Snow Mushroom Moisturiser and the SVR Sensifine Aqua Gel. I usually apply this after a toner and right before a Gel/Moisturiser. If the skin is feeling a little parched, I’ll add 2 layers of this and also apply liberally on the neck. Also if the skin is particularly angry/irritated – I will use this as a Toner, Serum, Essence and Ampoule in 1 to minimise skincare steps in order to avoid touching the skin + aggravating the skin further.
Key Ingredients: Centella Asiatica Extract – Both an Antioxidant, Soothing and a Moisturiser/Humectant (Draws Water in).
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What is Centella Asiatica + What does it do?
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) has been used to treat small wounds, skin burns and small scratches traditionally.
It is also meant to be used for Eczema as it helps ease inflammation.
There are lots of actives in Centella Asiatica such as Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Madecassoside + Asiaticoside (These are labelled as Centellosides). Interestingly – the COSRX Cica Line Really Accentuates how their products contain all these aspects as a Cica-7 Complex (With a high % of Cica – but obviously this Ampoule here contains 100% Cica which is more than the Cosrx products (See my Youtube Video Below to know more!). But I would actually recommend sensitised skins use this ampoule over any of the Cosrx Cica Products as those contain Hyaluronic Acid or Niacinamide which can sting Irritated/Compromised Skin barrier Skins).
Centellosides help promote Glycosaminoglycans (The liquid between cells) which are Polysaccharides (sugars) – (Paper HERE). Which is why they help with wound healing + also can help draw in moisture.
Asiaticoside (which is also part of Cica) promotes skin antioxidation levels in animal skin (this was tested on Rats specifically, so not exactly human skin) even when applied at a low level (Paper here). And the antioxidant ability of Centella Asiatica can help with Skin-ageing due to protecting the skin from free-radical damage (Paper here).
Cica also helps promote Skin hydration by increasing Hyaluronic Acid production in the skin, hence why it’s also labelled as a Humectant or Moisturiser – the study to back this up is HERE (Ceramides were tested alongside Cica to compare).
A study also showed that Cica has anti-inflammatory benefits. Madecassoside (in Cica) helps promote wound healing (paper HERE) by promoting Collagen production in the Skin (however Tamanu Oil did better at Collagen Stimulation than Cica)
- So basically, Centella Asiatics does help promote Wound Healing, Soothes the skin, Hydrates it (however I don’t find this Ampoule particularly Hydrating I must say!) and provides some Antioxidant benefits to the skin. So it’s good to have in a routine, and especially those with Irritated or irritation-prone skins.
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Full Ingredients: Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract 100%
- So as you can see, a very simple Ingredient list! This is why I recommend this to Sensitised/Irritated Skins as this 1 ingredient product should have less chance at irritating the skin!
Video Swatch of the Ampoule
Texture: This is a very lightweight, simple, non-sticky and non-tacky product that runs down the hand. It absorbs fast and doesn’t leave a greasy or an oily finish. It doesn’t feel particularly hydrating nor moisturising on the skin, but it definitely helps soothe the skin when irritated.
This spreads far and feels so light on the skin. It doesn’t mean that it feels like nothing but water and ends up making the skin feel dry-er after application, no – this definitely adds to the skin and it has some weight to it without feeling heavy or suffocating. It is still a basic texture though, but it doesn’t make the skin feel tight or uncomfortable after applying.
Hopefully you can see just how lightweight this product is and how it runs down the hand!
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Definitely lightweight and basically like water! This is fast absorbing and isn’t sticky or greasy!
Honestly if the skin is very irritated, this can be used as a toner as well. i.e. Toner, Ampoule, Serum + Essence.
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Face Swatch Video:
Hopefully you can see how lightweight this Ampoule is!
Fragrance?: No added Fragrance + EO, which makes it more compatible with Sensitised + Irritated Skins.
Good Under Makeup?: Yes! As this is so lightweight + layerable (i.e. doesn’t ball up).
Summer or Winter?: Both seasons but particularly Summer as it’s so light (and isn’t particularly moisturising).
Does this sting when/if the skin is Sensitised (I.e. when eveything stings): NO! This is one of the few products I can apply to my skin when it’s irritated and it WONT sting.
How long have I been using this?: 1-2 months
The Effect?: Soothed Skin! It definitely doesn’t aggrevate the skin and helps nurse irritated skin back to good health. It doesn’t particularly Moisturise or Hydrate the skin, that’s why if the skin is particularly parched I will add 2 layers to try and get that full moisturising/humectant effect of Centella Asiatica into the skin.
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What I like:
- Fragrance + EO Free
- Can be used on Sensitised/Angry Skin
- Fast Absorbing
- Lightweight Texture
- I love the packaging (Glass Bottle)
- Doesn’t sting / irritate
- Not greasy
- Soothing
What I don’t like:
- Can be deemed as ”basic” (i.e. I don’t reach for this if the skin isn’t irritated/sensitised as I go for more ”complex” serums/essences/toners that help with a skin issue in that moment)
- Not particularly hydrating or moisturising (definitely need to add something hydrating/moisturising on top).
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Overall Rating and Conclusion: 4/5 – A Basic, Simple Ampoule that is a Skin Saver when the skin is irritated/sensitised and everything else stings/hurts. It simply helps soothe and hydrate the skin when it’s in panic mode. Do I reach for this when the skin isn’t sensitised? Not really, as it’s very basic and I would prefer to use an ampoule/serum/essence that helps correct a skin issue I have in that moment.
I definitely think sensitive and sensitised skins would love this and in particular, Oily/Combo Skins or those living in Hot and Humid weathers where you want a serum/essence/ampoule that’s lightweight enough to wear in the AM without making the skin feel like it’s sweating.
Would I repurchase?: Yes – very useful when the skin is irritated/sensitised.
Dupe?: The I’m From Mugwort Essence (My Review HERE) – Just as simple (also only 1 ingredient too). I would preference this product over the Mugwort Essence as Centella has more research to back up its effects on the skin – nonetheless, the Mugwort Essence absolutely did not sting or worsen my skin’s condition when I had overdone it on retinol!
My Skin Type: I am acne prone and have slightly dehydrated combo skin. My skin is usually tight where the cheeks and eye area is and the outer parts of my face. My T zone is oily. My skin isn’t a fan of thick/heavy formulas so I opt for lightweight formulas to prevent it from clogging up. My skin doesn’t like essential oils either and I try to avoid fragrance when I can.
Disclaimer: I am a skincare enthusiast and not a skin expert. I am not qualified to give out dermatological advice. This type of advice should only be given by a medical practitioner. Upon trying / using any of the reviewed products on the blog, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings and please seek medical advice if needed.
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