The 9 Very Best Products for Preventing and Fading Melasma
9 items in this article
Photo: Marcus McDonald
On the list of common but stubborn skin concerns, melasma is pretty high up. It’s the trickiest kind of hyperpigmentation, because it’s notoriously difficult to get rid of and doesn’t always respond well to run-of-the-mill hyperpigmentation-clearing products. Melasma is a type of skin discoloration that typically appears as dark-brown patches on the forehead, cheeks, nose, and upper lip. It affects people of all genders (and can flare up even if you’ve gone years — or your whole life — without a breakout), but according to Derma di Colore founder Dr. Carlos A. Charles, it “is more prevalent in women with darker skin tones that tan easily, but it can be seen across most skin complexions.” Two main factors that contribute to melasma are exposure to UV light and hormonal changes, so “summertime and pregnancy are common times when melasma flares up,” says Dr. Nava Greenfield of Schweiger Dermatology Group.
While Charles, Greenfield, and other dermatologists we talked to say a combination of prescription-strength medications and in-office treatments is the most comprehensive way to treat melasma, there are over-the-counter topical products you can use to help prevent and fade it. Below are our experts’ recommendations for the most effective over-the-counter ways to treat and prevent melasma — including a product specifically for pregnant people.
Best overall to prevent melasma | Best moisturizer for preventing melasma | Best sunscreen for pregnant people to prevent melasma | Best overall to treat melasma | Best serum to treat melasma | Best less expensive serum to treat melasma | Best product to use at night | Best retinoid alternative | Best makeup to cover melasma
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Ingredients: On the prevention front, our experts’ top recommendation is sunscreen. “Sun and light exposure is the most common reason for the appearance of melasma,” explains Dr. Morgan Rabach of LM Medical NYC. Therefore, the first — and most essential — defense, according to all of our experts, is to liberally apply a broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen with zinc or titanium every single day no matter the weather. Melasma responds well to hyperpigmentation-fading vitamin C, which has the additional benefit of protecting skin from UV damage. Experts recommend hydroquinone, a highly effective skin-lightening agent, though one concern is that it paradoxically darkens the skin. This typically happens when it’s used for too long, which is why most dermatologists recommend it for short periods of time (around three to six months). The latest alternative to hydroquinone is cysteamine, which Dr. Karan Lal says “depigments the skin slowly and more safely than other bleaching ingredients.” Unlike with hydroquinone, you don’t run the risk of paradoxical hyperpigmentation.
Price: Skin care runs the gamut — ranging from drugstore to luxe. We’ve noted the size as well as cost per ounce (or fluid ounce), so you can choose what works best for your budget.
Best overall product to prevent melasma
Best moisturizer for preventing melasma
No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Advanced Day Cream SPF 30
$21
$21
Avobenzone (3 percent), octisalate (5 percent), octocrylene (7.5 percent), peptides, and antioxidants | 1.6 ounces (approx. $12 per ounce)
“It’s a multitasking day cream good for those who want to prevent melasma and are also interested in treating fine lines,” says Dr. Tess Mauricio, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of M Beauty Clinic. The lightweight cream gives SPF 30 protection and protects the skin against environmental damage. Miami-based dermatologist Annie Gonzalez says this is a favorite of hers and is popular with her clients, who like that it can address a few different concerns at once.
$21
at Target
$25
at Ulta Beauty
Best sunscreen for pregnant people to prevent melasma
Belli Pure Radiance Mineral Sunscreen
$24
Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide | 1.5 fluid ounces (approx. $16 per fluid ounce)
If you’re pregnant, Greenfield recommends this 100 percent mineral sunscreen — which is fragrance, paraben, and oil free — to help prevent melasma breakouts. “It’s formulated to be pregnancy safe, which can help prevent flares during pregnancy,” she says.
$24
at Amazon
$24
at iHerb
Best overall product to treat melasma
Ambi Skincare Fade Cream
$5
Hydroquinone, vitamin E, lactic acid | 2 ounces (approx. $3 per ounce)
Hydroquinone is an FDA-approved skin-lightening agent that works by inhibiting the skin’s pigment-producing cells. Six of our experts named it as an extremely effective way to treat melasma flare-ups, especially via products that combine hydroquinone with other active ingredients like exfoliating acids. Dr. Y. Claire Chang of Union Square Laser Dermatology likes Ambi Fade Cream in particular because it contains vitamin E and lactic acid to help with simultaneously exfoliating and softening skin. But, she warns, it isn’t an overnight fix or something to be used indefinitely. “It can take two to three months to see results,” she says, “and should not be used for more than three to six months at a time.” You should apply a thin layer only to the melasma itself, not to the rest of the skin, and wear SPF consistently to make sure no new melasma forms. And if your melasma pops up during pregnancy, you should wait until after giving birth before applying this or any other product formulated with hydroquinone.
$5
at Amazon
Best serum to treat melasma
Best less expensive serum to treat melasma
Naturium Vitamin C Complex Face Serum
$20
$20
L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate | 1 fluid ounce ($20 per fluid ounce)
For a less expensive vitamin C serum, there’s this one from Naturium, which Dr. Lal describes as “elegant,” and “nonirritating.” It can be used up to two times per day, says Lal, and uses a stabilized version of L-ascorbic acid along with sodium ascorbyl phosphate and a fruit extract blend that further helps to brighten the skin.
$20
at Amazon
Best product to use at night to prevent and treat melasma
Differin Acne Treatment
$29
for 2
Adapalene | 0.5 ounces ($30 per ounce)
Four of our dermatologists suggested using a retinoid to prevent and combat melasma flare-ups. Because retinoids (topical agents derived from vitamin A) encourage cell turnover and inhibit tyrosinase — the enzyme our skin needs to produce melanin — they can lead to “brighter, more even-toned skin,” according to Bunting. Since they make your skin more sun sensitive, the experts say you should use retinoids as a part of only your nightly routine. Many are available only by prescription, but Bae cites Differin, which contains the retinoid adapalene, as an affordable over-the-counter option — except for pregnant people, who should not use any retinoids, according to the dermatologists we talked to.
$29
for 2
at Amazon
$15
at Walmart
Best retinoid alternative to prevent and treat melasma
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
$11
Azelaic acid | 1 ounce ($10 per ounce)
If you’re pregnant or otherwise unable to use a retinoid like that in Differin, incorporating an azelaic-acid serum can be a good stand-in. Azelaic acid is a brightening antioxidant that puts a stop to pigment production in the skin, according to Bunting, who recommended this serum by name. “For pregnancy, a simple azelaic-acid serum is best,” he advises. Chang is a fan, noting that some small studies have shown it to be as effective as hydroquinone.
$11
at Sephora
$11
at Ulta Beauty
Best makeup to cover melasma
Colorescience Mineral Corrector Palette
$59
SPF, Mineral Powder | 0.32 ounces (approx. $175 per ounce)
Actress Alison Brie, who struggles with melasma, told us about this concealer palette from Colorescience when we asked her about the things she can’t live without. “It’s the only makeup that’s ever been approved by my facialist as something that’s not a terrible pore-clogger,” she says. The palette comes with a guide to explain what each shade corrects and it contains SPF for added protection from the sun.
$59
at Amazon
$56
at Dermstore
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