The History of the Chanel Classic Flap Bag – Invaluable

In the 1920s, fashion legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel came up with an idea that was, at the time, unorthodox. If soldiers could carry their satchels over their soldiers, why couldn’t handbags be shoulder accessories too?

Decades later, in February 1955, her idea finally blossomed into the Chanel 2.55, widely accredited as the world’s first-ever shoulder bag. Where bags were previously held by hand, now they could go over the shoulder, freeing up the previously occupied bag hand.

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The Chanel 2.55 was an instant sensation. In the 1980s it was redesigned and rebranded as the Chanel classic flap bag. These bags are highly sought-after among fashion collectors the world over, as reflected in their sale (and resale) prices. Below is a history of the Chanel classic flap bag, a rundown of its investment value, and a primer on the bag’s 1983 redesign.

The Rise of the Chanel Classic Flap to Iconic Status

Upon its release, the Chanel 2.55 appealed primarily to women who had long carried their bags by hand. The 2.55 — with “2” representing February and “55” representing 1955 — promised a new level of practicality, not to mention sophistication.

The exterior’s diamond-stitched quilting — Coco Chanel’s inspiration for this was men’s racetrack jackets — made the Chanel 2.55 a clear fashion statement. So too did the eye-catching adjustable chain strap and the stunning burgundy interior lining. The bag quickly caught on: In the beloved 1961 film ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s,’ Audrey Hepburn’s character sported a Chanel 2.55 bag.

The Chanel 2.55 took on a new life shortly after Karl Lagerfeld joined Chanel as creative director in 1983. Lagerfeld replaced the original bag’s square twisting lock, a.k.a the Mademoiselle Lock, with an interlocking clasp. This clasp comprises the letters “CC” — the brand’s logo and its founder’s initials. 

Lagerfeld’s redesign is known as the Chanel classic flap bag or, as of spring 2021, the Chanel 11.12. The 2.55 bag is sometimes known as just the Chanel flap bag (without the word “classic”). The Chanel classic flap bag has become especially iconic — in fact, Princess Diana was known to wear it. Fashion commentators, designers, collectors, and other experts view the bag as a milestone and an item well worth purchasing, even at high prices.

The investment value of a Chanel classic flap bag 

Chanel is known to increase the price of its bags periodically. The retail price of plain leather Chanel classic flap bags can reach into the high thousands or low tens of thousands. These prices reflect the bag’s legendary status and the high demand for Chanel 2.55 and classic flap bags. That Chanel limits the supply of the bags also contributes to their high prices, as does their general association with luxury and wealth.

These high prices can increase substantially in the course of just a year. For example, in March 2023, Chanel raised the price of the Medium Chanel Classic Flap to $10,200. This figure represents a 16% increase from the 2022 price. Rare is the fashion item that can swell in price so much in such a short timeframe. 

Purchasing a Chanel classic flap bag can thus be an investment for both your wardrobe and your wallet. This is especially true for limited-edition bags, those made with rare leather, or those with the all-black “So Black” design.

The Original Chanel 2.55 vs. the Chanel Classic Flap Bag 

Both the Chanel 2.55 and the Chanel classic flap bag are highly valuable and thoroughly iconic. It can help to know how the two overlap and differ as you pursue buying one. Here are the key distinctions and similarities.

Flaps

A Chanel classic flap bag includes a double flap. This means the bag has an extra interior flap that separates part of the bag from the primary exterior flap. Both flaps are typically made of burgundy leather. While some smaller Chanel flap bags include a single flap and thus weigh less, this comes at the expense of storage space. Most of these single-flap models are Chanel 2.55 bags, as the double flap has been standard since Lagerfeld’s redesign.

In a double-flap Chanel bag, the bigger flap boasts a Chanel logo. This flap separates two compartments, the larger one of which includes three slip-in pockets. One of these pockets is bigger than the other two. There’s also a zipper under the top flap that, as rumor has it, Coco Chanel used for hiding love letters. 

Logo and lock

In the Chanel 2.55 design, the lock is a square that twists and interlocks with a clasp, known as the “Mademoiselle Clasp”. The Chanel classic flap bag uses a lock and clasp comprised of the two “C”s of the Chanel logo interlocking, instead. This part of the bag is among its most iconic features. The logo makes a Chanel classic flap bag instantly identifiable, and it’s an emblem of high-fashion status.

Quilting and material

The initial Chanel 2.55 design sported diamond quilting, and this shape is often associated with Chanel bags. Later iterations, such as the Chanel classic flap bag, are available in chevron (V-shaped) quilting as well. 

Over the years, two types of leather, “caviar” and traditional lambskin, have been the primary materials used for this quilting. Limited editions using cotton, tweed, and transparent plastic have also been produced.

Caviar is simply treated and grained lambskin. This type of lambskin, which is waterproof, has earned its nickname since its texture supposedly resembles that of caviar. The finish on regular lambskin is smoother and more delicate.

Straps

The overwhelming majority of Chanel 2.55 bags come with a chain strap, but occasionally, one will feature a leather-woven chain strap. Chanel only manufactured the latter 2.55 bags when other resources were unavailable. From the Chanel classic flap bag onward, though, these leather-woven chain straps have been universal.

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Maintenance tips for a Chanel bag

A Chanel bag is an investment, which makes protecting its value a priority. Proper maintenance starts with regularly using just a soft, dry microfiber cloth — and a light touch — for basic cleaning. If more care is needed, a leather conditioner may be best, though experts recommend conditioning your bag only once per year. This is recommended over using water, which may leave stains and lines depending on which minerals are in your tap water.

Properly using a leather conditioner involves gently rubbing the substance on your bag using a microfiber cloth. The next step is to leave the bag untouched for half an hour — this gives the leather time to absorb the conditioner. After that, conditioning ends with using a clean, dry microfiber cloth to remove the excess. 

In general, moisture that doesn’t come from a conditioner — especially oil, acetone, or perfume — is bad for the bag. So too is scratching the bag, though this is easy to avoid. Since the Chanel classic flap bag is designed not to be held, one’s fingernails should rarely come into contact with it. The bag’s very functionality preserves its long-term value.

Chanel’s continuing legacy of classic luxury

The Chanel classic flap bag is the definition of a glamorous fashion accessory. Designers and stylists have taken cues from the bag for decades, and its ever-increasing value speaks volumes to its prestige. These bags have long been associated with opulence, so wearing one can elevate your entire aesthetic. It’s buying and later selling one, though, that can bring a different type of wealth.

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