The History of the Hero: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

The best vitamin C serums have the power to promote the skin’s collagen and elastin production, neutralise free radicals from environmental stress, and brighten the complexion – helping to fade and prevent hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C – the ingredient also known as ascorbic acid or l-ascorbic acid – really is an anti-ageing powerhouse, but not all skincare formulas centred on the antioxidant are made equal.

Indeed, there are myriad considerations to make before choosing The One for you, from the skin type and concerns it’s intended to target to whether the product is proven as efficacious (vitamin C is notoriously unstable as an ingredient, with heat, light and air easily degrading its efficacy, while it’s hard for the skin to absorb, too – with a pH above 3.5 it won’t penetrate). What the ingredient is formulated alongside, which can determine its purpose and performance, is another key factor. It’s perhaps its multifaceted nature speaking to these aspects that makes – arguably the skincare world’s most innovative vitamin C serum, and certainly the most famous – so sought after.

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum

£165 at LookFantastic

Born in 2005, C E Ferulic (the number one SkinCeuticals antioxidant serum) has featured in many peer-reviewed scientific journals and clinical studies worldwide. But it’s not only academics that are preoccupied with the patented formulation, but celebrities (from Tracee Ellis Ross to Gwyneth Paltrow, and Hailey Bieber) and content creators too; on TikTok alone the serum has racked up 302.7 million views of videos in which it stars. But does the 30ml liquid live up to its £165 price tag?

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Is C E Ferulic worth the hype?

Firstly, the fact that it’s a triple antioxidant treatment makes C E Ferulic special, with 15 per cent l-ascorbic acid being one part of its profile alongside 1 per cent alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) to help retain moisture and promote radiance, and 0.5 per cent ferulic acid – which helps to reduce inflammation, even the skin’s tone and stabilise the vitamin C. “It is the synergy of these three ingredients in the correct doses that propels the antioxidant effect,” explains Dr Wassim TakTouk, aesthetic doctor and SkinCeuticals brand expert. “This blend delivers eight times more environmental protection than vitamin C alone.”

Courtesy of SkinCeuticals

He explains that using C E Ferulic can mean “up to 48 per cent less oxidative damage in the skin from the damaging free radicals caused by UV, Ozone, pollution and metals” – a claim grounded by the brand’s most recent clinical studies. In addition, using it “improves the brightness of the skin, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and loss of firmness” – and it doesn’t discriminate. “CE Ferulic is best suited for all normal, dry and combination skins and mature skins,” Dr TakTouk confirms (oilier types might prefer SkinCeuticals’ other antioxidant serums, or , but there’s more on that later).

Potency aside, let’s talk penetration. Being formulated under the most important patent in SkinCeuticals’ history pertaining to stability of vitamin C (known as the Duke Antioxidant patent), SkinCeuticals’ founding scientist, Dr Sheldon Pinnell, changed the face of topical vitamin C serums with his pivotal research underpinning the product’s efficacy. Within the parameters of his theory, for a vitamin C to penetrate the skin it must combine pure l-ascorbic acid, in the correct concentrations (10-to-20 per cent concentration provides meaningful levels of vitamin C in the skin; it is a myth that the higher the percentage in a product, the more effective it is) and fall within the 2.0-to-3.6 pH range – which C E Ferulic does at 2.3 pH. For this reason, “once applied it remains effective on the skin for a minimum of 72 hours,” Dr TakTouk says.

For such innovation, some question the product’s packaging, especially given how many other vitamin C serums come in airtight containers for protection. However, C E Ferulic’s dark amber-coloured glass bottle with dropper-style applicator is designed with preservation in mind – though you should take precautions, too. “​​The bottle should be kept closed and at room temperature ideally away from direct sunlight,” Dr TakTouk advises. “It should be used within 36 months of purchasing and six months of opening.” The appearance of the serum may darken in this time, “but it will remain effective,” he promises.

How should I use C E Ferulic?

A relationship with C E Ferulic means a daily date. “Use it first thing in the morning after cleansing,” Dr TakTous says. “Apply four-to-five drops on the face, neck and décolletage.” Allow it to dry before following with moisturiser, and your all-important SPF.

“It is also an excellent serum to be used immediately during a laser procedure and the following days to speed up the downtime,” he adds – should you be investing in such professional skin treatments, too.

What’s the difference between C E Ferulic, Silymarin CF and Phloretin CF?

While C E Ferulic might be the best-known SkinCeuticals product – and has inspired many similarly profiled products cocktailing vitamins C and E with ferulic acid, some of which are unapologetically positioned as affordable ‘dupes’ – the brand’s fellow antioxidant serums Silymarin CF and Phloretin CF are also lauded by skin insiders.

While the proprietary C E Ferulic might best target loss of firmness, fine lines and wrinkles, is ideal for treating oiliness, blemishes and rough texture, while tackles discolouration and an uneven skin tone as a priority. Each combines vitamin C with other actives, to form the ‘prevention’ step in your morning skincare routine.

As with any vitamin C product, be careful if you have sensitive skin or a fragile skin barrier, given that topical treatments with an acidic pH of around two can cause flare-ups of acne and eczema. A patch test prior to diving in is recommended, or – in the case of SkinCeuticals – an online skin consultation can be to help determine which products are best for you.

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