The Ultimate Fabric Guide – 2019

You’ve got an amazingly creative idea and the enthusiasm to execute it.
The right fabric can make a big difference as it can transform the way a design
will look. Fabrics come in different shapes, textures, and colors. Choosing the
right one depends on personal preference, in addition to the nature of the
design you wish to sew. In this comprehensive guide, you’ll find everything you
need to know about various fabrics and how to choose the right one for you.

Table of Contents

1. What Is Fabric?

2. Difference Between Woven and Knit Fabric

3. Natural vs. Synthetic Fabric

4. How To Buy Fabric

5. Types of Fabric

6. How To Choose The Right Fabric

What is Fabric?

Fabric and textile usually refer to the same thing. This is a flexible
material that’s produced by creating a bond of natural or synthetic fibers.
However, there is a slight difference between the two terms. While a
textile
refers to a material made of interlacing fibers
, fabric
refers to a material made through knitting, weaving or other forms of bonding
so this material is further used to produce clothing garments.

In prehistoric times, humans managed to make dyed fabrics to make clothes
that show status, protect from the changes in the weather or used them as tools
to express their creativity. Throughout history, and equipped by science and
experience, man has succeeded in creating more versatile and durable versions
that can be used to suit all tastes and purposes.

Difference Between Woven and Knit Fabrics

Most of the natural and synthetic fibers are either woven or knit.
There’s a difference between the two types of fabrics which you should take
into consideration to make sure that the design you’re executing will look just
the way you like.

(Image Source: 
Textile Merchandising)

The first difference between knit and woven fabrics is the way the yarn
looks. Knit fabrics are made of single yarns that are braided together to
produce a flexible material. Woven fabrics feature multiple yarns laid on top
of each other in a perpendicular form to make the material.

Because of the composition, knit
fabrics can easily stretch
. If you pull the fabric too hard,
you will see empty gaps as a result of pulling the threads forming the braids. You
can pull your knit fabrics from all directions and it will probably get back to
normal. On the other hand, woven fabrics don’t stretch that much, if they ever
do along the width. They will slightly stretch along the length of the
material, though.

Moreover, knit fabrics don’t form wrinkles easily. If you take a piece
of the fabric and roll it up in your hand, it will bounce back to its original
shape once you release it. Woven fabrics will wrinkle easily.

The fray test is another way to differentiate fabrics. Woven fabrics always have a selvage along the
width of the material to prevent fraying. But the length can easily fray. Knit
fabrics, on the other hand, might fray on their width and curl along the length
if there is no glue to prevent the knit material from curling.

Natural vs. Synthetic Fibers

Fabrics come from four main sources, animals, plants, minerals, and
synthetic sources. Fibers from wool and silk are made of animal sources.
Cotton, linen, flax, and bamboo are fibers made of plant sources. Glass fiber
comes from a mineral source. Synthetic fibers come from petroleum and include
nylon, polyester, and acrylic.

Fabrics made of animal sources have been around for centuries. Humans
used wool fibers from sheep to create clothes for the cold weather because the
fibers are coated with a waxy material that is water and dirt proof. Cashmere
and mohair are softer materials but are also very warm and provide excellent
insulation.

Silk is another fabric made of the fibers of the cocoon of the silkworm.
It’s extremely soft and has a sheen to it so it’s widely used in luxurious
garments that have some movement. Other types of animal fibers include camel
hair, llama wool, and sea silk. Animal-based fabrics are more expensive than
other materials and primarily used to produce high-end clothing apparel.

Plant-based fabrics depend on fibers obtained from cotton, hemp, flax,
and bamboo. Some of these fibers are mixed with other synthetic or animal-based
fibers to create a fabric with distinctive properties.

Mineral fibers aren’t widely used in fabrics intended for clothing
apparel. You can find glass fibers used in mattress covers because the fabric
is sturdy and doesn’t show signs of wear and tear easily.

Synthetic fibers were game changers when they were introduced to the
fabrics’ industry. These man-made fibers are created in the laboratory and are
used to make a variety of fabrics for different purposes. Most of these fibers
are petroleum-based and are either used alone or combined with natural fibers.
Manufacturers use synthetic fibers to overcome the drawbacks of the natural
ones.

Polyester is often blended with cotton to reduce the wrinkling of cotton
and make it more practical to use. Other mineral fibers are added to cotton to
make it more moisture-wicking and comfortable. Acrylic has a texture similar to
natural wool but is more affordable. You’ll often find fabrics made of acrylic
and wool or cashmere which are more comfortable to wear and don’t itch.

Olefin fabrics are used in sportswear and activewear because they allow
your body to dry quickly. Spandex is another stretchy fabric that can be used
to make tight fitting clothes like bras and swimsuits. In the 20
th
century, scientists also managed to formulate a fabric made of milk proteins.
This fabric is suitable for sensitive skin, has anti-microbial properties, and
is also biodegradable.

Generally speaking, animal-based fabrics like wool and cashmere are
warmer than any kind plant-based or synthetic fabric. They’re also more
expensive, and this is why manufacturers and fashion designers usually look for
synthetic options that provide the same look and texture of natural fabrics
without the hefty price tags.

Synthetic fibers are much more versatile. The length of the fiber is
controlled by man, unlike natural fibers. They’re more uniform because the
producer can control the shape and nature of all fibers used to produce the fabric.
Moreover, a producer can easily change something in the structure of the fibers
according to preferences or needs.

On the other hand, natural fabrics are much more comfortable to wear.
They are soft, can absorb dyes easily, and when they burn you don’t end up with
a chemical smell. Their nature might be more limited which makes them less
durable, but they’re always in fashion, especially if you’re designing a luxurious
piece of clothing that is worn for a special occasion.

So what are the factors to consider when you’re choosing between natural
and synthetic fabrics? Here are a few things to think about.

• The price of the final model. If you are designing a
  piece for Haute Couture, you’re likely to depend on natural fabrics. Working on
  a practical piece that should have an affordable price means that you will rely
  on synthetic fabrics.

• Nature of the design. Think of the characteristics
  that you want your final design to have. Should it be flowy? Do you need extra
  movement? Do you want it to resist wrinkles? Answering these questions will
  help you choose the right fabric for your design.

• Durability of your model. If you want a durable
  fabric, then you should go with synthetic ones. They’re easier to maintain,
  clean, and iron. Natural fabrics require special treatment.

Both types of fabrics have their advantages and disadvantages. Choosing
the fabric is a matter of personal preference after all because you should
think about the comfort level that comes with every choice. When you’re
shopping, you should study the features of each type to make sure that you’re
choosing one that you can work with and will allow you to execute your favorite
design the way it should be done.

How to Buy Fabric?

The worst nightmare to a person sewing some fabric to create a design is
to find out that they’re short of the material before they’re done with their final
product. At the same time, you don’t want to have excess material that you
won’t use anyway because this will be a waste of money.

There are lots of problems that beginners might encounter when they’re
shopping for fabric, especially for the first time. They can buy the wrong type
of fabric, the wrong amount, mix and match materials that don’t complement each
other or choose a pattern that won’t complement the design. This is why you should
weigh your options carefully when you’re shopping for fabric for clothing
apparel or any other purpose.

Shopping for Fabric in Store vs. Online

There are two options when it comes to shopping for fabric; either going
to the store or shopping for fabric online.

When you go to the store, you’ve got a chance to examine the texture of
the fabric. Feel it and see how it looks against your skin. You can see how
see-through or heavy the material is and this can give you an idea of how it
will look like when executed in the model. When you’re working with a pre-designed
model, there is always a list of suggested fabrics that will work to make that
special piece look exceptional. Nevertheless, you can always look for other
materials depending on the color, pattern, and texture you prefer.

If you’re confused with the right fabric to pick, you can always ask the
shop assistant for help. Shop assistants who work for big chains, in particular,
know everything about the traits of fabrics so they will easily help you pick
you another material that better suits your model and taste.

A shop assistant will also help you decide on the right amount of
material you need to buy for a particular model. This way you won’t end up with
excess material or run out of fabric before your design is fully sewn and
finished.

But what if there are no fabric shops nearby? What if you want to buy a
special kind of fabric? This is when you should consider online shopping.
Online fabric stores offer comprehensive collections of fabrics that can suit
all tastes. You’ll have all the time in the world to see colors and patterns of
different textures so you can choose the right one. These 
online fabric stores are practical
and accessible because you can go back and compare
notes about your chosen materials any time you like. You’re shopping at your
own convenience and this gives you a sense of freedom, especially if you need
time to make a decision.

Most people prefer buying fabrics online because they can easily
calculate the amount of fabric needed using the charts provided on the website.
They can also determine the amount of money they will spend to buy different
materials before they actually make a purchase. You can also check online
reviews if they’re available to make sure that other people are satisfied with
the fabrics they’re buying.

What to Look For When You’re Buying Fabrics?

Whether you decide to go shopping for fabric or head to an online store,
you should make sure that you’re dealing with a trustworthy shop. This will
guarantee the quality of material provided so you can rest assured that your
model will look as excellent as you wish it to be.

The information to consider when you’re buying is the same whether
you’re shopping online or in store. You can check this information online or in
person when you’re touching the fabric itself. This is what you need to
consider.

• Fabric Type

This is important information because you might be confused, especially
if you aren’t that experienced with sewing. Some materials look close to each
other but they’re different in nature and will affect the way your executed
model will look after it’s finished. Check the information to make sure that
you’re buying an appropriate material that will work with the model you’ve
chosen.

• Fabric Content

On very rare occasions, you will find that your fabric is made of a pure
type of fibers. This is because manufacturers usually combine several types of
fibers together to provide better qualities. For example, you can find a silk
and polyester blend that has all the luxurious features of silk for the most
elegant designs, but is more durable and resists wrinkling. Check the
information on the website or ask the shop assistant for the fabric content to
make sure that you understand the nature of the material you’re buying.

• Fabric Width

When you’re choosing a model, you’ll find information about the yardage
or amount of material needed to execute this model. Different fabrics come in
different widths, and this means that you’ll have to buy a different amount of
each material to make sure that you have enough fabric to finish your design.
Generally speaking, if the fabric isn’t that wide, you’ll end up buying more
material. This is something you should consider when you’re comparing materials
against each other because you might end up paying more, even though you
actually chose the cheaper material.

When you’re working with certain patterns like stripes or plaids, you
should understand that the width of the fabric isn’t the only factor that will affect
your purchase decision. In this case, buyers usually end up buying more
material to make sure that the shapes match.

• Country of Origin

This gives you an idea of the quality of the fabric you’re buying,
especially if you’re shopping for natural-based fabrics. Some countries are
famous for certain types of fabrics. For example, China, India, and Uzbekistan
are among the top manufacturers of natural silk. So you if you are shopping for
silk fabric coming from these countries, you know that it will be of top
quality.

• Care Instructions

This is another piece of information that you should consider before
buying material. Some materials are difficult to care for. They should be dealt
with extreme care or dry cleaned only which can make them less practical,
especially if you’re choosing material for a piece you’ll wear on a daily
basis.

Different Types of Fabric

The world of fabrics and textiles provide endless possibilities for any
sewing project. The more information you know about the material you’re using
the better your sewing project will look.

Light and very light fabrics are usually used for shirts, tops, dresses,
and sometimes skirts. Heavy and medium fabrics are suitable for pants and
suits. Most fabrics found today can combine two or more materials for a better
finish or more functionality. Here are some of the most common types of
fabrics.

• Cotton

One of the most popular natural fibers. It’s very cool, wears, and ages
well. Cotton is the most popular type of material for t-shirts and summer
clothes. It will shrink if you wash it, so you must make sure that it’s
pre-treated. It also takes time to dry.

• Polyester

Unlike cotton, this material doesn’t shrink and dries very quickly. It
doesn’t absorb water and isn’t suitable for very tight-fitting clothes.
However, it’s one of the most versatile and cheapest materials. Polyester can
be
combined
with other materials like spandex
to give it some stretch for tight
clothes.

• Viscose

This material is lightweight
and very comfortable to wear
. It’s cool and absorbs water fast,
but it wrinkles pretty easy. It’s suitable for a model where you want some
movement.

• Lace

This see-through material
comes in various patterns and shapes
. The material can be worn on
its own or with lining for any model you prefer.

• Velvet

This is a smooth fabric that’s suitable for
figure-hugging clothes
. It’s an elegant choice for winter clothes.

• Wool

This material is warm and strong. It doesn’t wrinkle easily and provides
good insulation in cold weather. You should take care of wool to make sure that
it lasts for long.

How to Choose the Right Fabric?

If you’re a newbie or an amateur, you might start working on your fabric
selection skills. You might struggle a little at the beginning, but practice
makes perfect. Here is how to choose the right fabric.

1. Think About your Project

There are different ways to choose a sewing project. You can look for online
inspiration, check out a pattern in a magazine or find a tutorial where the
tutor makes suggestions. Next, you should examine the design and think of the
simplest way to execute it.

2. Check Suggested Material

You can always find the suggested material in online tutorials or
printed magazines. But if you can’t then look at the design when it’s executed
and try to pick a similar fabric.

3. Choose the Right Drape

This is the way the fabric hangs when you hold it. Some fabrics like
silk and chiffon hang or drape softly. They are suitable for models where you
want to have more movement like skirts and dresses. Heavier materials might not
be suitable for these models, but they will work perfectly for a model where
you want some structure like pants and suits.

4. Check the Width

Make sure that you have a conversion table that will help you assess the
amount needed of each width of the fabric. This will guarantee that you will
have the right amount of material to work with.

5. Choose the Color

If you can check the color in person, then try to look at it in natural
light. Online stores also have clear images that allow you to see the precise
color before you make a purchase.

6. Now Picture your Finished Project

Now that you’re almost done, it’s time to think about the finished
project. Does the material provide the right stretch? Do you need a heavier
material? Does the fabric suit your body shape or do you need a heavier
material that accentuates your figure? This will help you make sure that you’ve
chosen the right material.

Conclusion

When it comes to choosing fabric for any sewing project, there are more
factors to consider other than the price. There is a big variety of excellent
fabrics available that you can experiment with. Do the research and pick a
material that suits your needs.