Arbutin Is the Acne-fighting Molecule Dermatologists Love—Here’s Why

While many assume wrinkles are the biggest skin concern when it comes to aging, a lot of people are more concerned about something else—uneven skin tone. Age spots and ruddy skin texture can age you more than fine lines. While tons of products promise to brighten, tone, and add luminosity, they can be too harsh or drying for those with sensitive skin—which is why we’re so excited about this skin-brightening ingredient that’s safe for all skin types.

Allow us to introduce you to arbutin, the secret skin brightener you’ve maybe never even heard of. Vitamin C, kojic acid, and licorice are all great natural skin brighteners, but there are a couple of reasons why arbutin kicks them to the curb. We spoke with experts and asked them to give us the 411 on arbutin.

Meet the Expert

• Michael Lin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Lin Skincare. He currently has his own practice in Los Angeles, CA.
• Claire Chang, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City.
• Ginger King is a cosmetic chemist and president of Grace Kingdom Beauty, which specializes in cosmetic brand concept development and beauty business consulting.

Keep scrolling to find out why this ingredient might just change your skin.

Arbutin

Type of Ingredient: Brightener

Main Benefits: Lightens dark spots, lessens the appearance of acne scars, helps even out skin tone.

Who Should Use It: Arbutin is generally safe for all skin types.

How often can you use it: Arbutin can be used twice a day. It is safe to apply on clean skin with other creams and serums. It can also be used in the summer since it does not make skin more sensitive to the sun.

Works well with: Vitamin C, AHAs

Don’t use with: While there are no known negative interactions with other skincare ingredients, heat can degrade the effectiveness of arbutin.

What is Arbutin?

“Arbutin is a molecule extracted from the bearberry plant that prevents the formation of melanin,” Lin explains. He compares arbutin to two other gentle brighteners: kojic acid (derived from mushrooms) and licorice root (derived from the licorice plant). “[They] are derived from different natural ingredients, but they all function as tyrosinase inhibitors to provide skin lightening and brightening effects,” he says.

Brown spots come from pigments that are produced in cells called melanocytes, which contain enzymes called tyrosinase. They can activate anytime they come in contact with UV light, which is why you’ll notice freckles and sun spots starting to develop if you spend too much time in the sun. That’s when arbutin comes in—it blocks tyrosinase and keeps dark spots at bay.

It’s important, however, to learn how to distinguish between alpha-arbutin (the good stuff) and other, similar-sounding ingredients, notes King. “There’s beta-arbutin, which is a cheap version and not stable, thus it is important to distinguish the forms of arbutin,” she notes. Alpha-arbutin is the most stable and effective form of the ingredient.

Arbutin is typically found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, toners, and masks.

Benefits of Arbutin for Skin

Alison Czinkota/BYRDIE

• Has sun protection properties: Arbutin can reduce the degree of skin darkening after sun exposure by blocking the production of tyrosinase.

• Gentle on skin: While other skin brightening agents can dry and irritate the skin, arbutin is less irritating. “Since arbutin’s active component is released slowly, it can be less irritating than other skin-lightening agents and better for those with sensitive skin,” Lin says.
• Improves uneven complexion: Since arbutin inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme that helps with melanin production, it can prevent dark spots or even help fade them, leading to a more even complexion.

• Can be used twice daily: For maximum results, arbutin can be used both in the morning and at night.
• Safer than hydroquinone: For a while, hydroquinone was the “miracle” skin-lightening ingredient—until it was declared carcinogenic by the FDA (when taken orally, rather than applied topically).

  While hydroquinone works by damaging the cells that produce pigmentation and melanin, arbutin inhibits the enzymes that stimulate pigment-producing cells.

• Effective at fading scars: Much like its ability to fade dark spots, arbutin is also great at fading those red-purple acne scars that stick around long after a zit is gone.
• Brightens skin: As explained above, arbutin prohibits the formation of dark spots, offering a brightening effect on the skin.

Key Ingredients

Hydroquinone is a chemical compound used in products that treat hyperpigmentation. It works by interacting with the melanin-producing cells in the skin and decreasing the production of pigment.

Side Effects of Arbutin

Before you go and buy every arbutin skin product out there, you should know this: There have been some people who get nervous about arbutin, because of the similar brightening benefits it has with hydroquinone. However, arbutin is widely considered a safe and effective ingredient for skin lightening.

“Arbutin is available in some skincare products designed to improve pigmentation,” Lin says. “Use of these products regularly in your routine will improve your complexion.” One thing he notes is that arbutin can be a great way to lighten acne scars—he recommends using acne treatments with natural ingredients and arbutin, like his eponymous line’s 2-Step Acne Clarifying System ($46), to lighten dark spots that can linger after acne fades.

How to Use It

Chang recommends using arbutin twice daily after cleansing but before any heavy moisturizers.

“You will be surprised to find arbutin is in many of your existing skincare products, especially skin brightening products,” Chang continues. While arbutin is mainly in skincare serums, it’s also a superstar ingredient in overnight masks and water creams.

King says it’s best to mix arbutin with other ingredients that offer similar brightening effects, such as vitamin C and AHA, but exercise caution when trying any new product. “When at a high pH, [arbutin] will release hydroquinone, but fortunately, most of the personal care products have a neutral pH,” cautions King. In other words, “arbutin is generally safe but some people can have sensitivity to it,” she adds.

Is Arbutin Safe to Use on Sensitive Skin?

“Because arbutin tends to be gentle, it can be used in combination with other skin lightening ingredients, like chemical peels and retinols,” says Chang. That means it’s safe for even the most sensitive skin (though, as with any new product, it’s best to see a professional and discontinue use if you notice an adverse reaction).

FAQ

• Is arbutin good for sensitive skin?

  Arbutin is typically safe and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. As always, spot-test any new products to make sure you don’t have an adverse reaction.

• Can I use arbutin twice a day?

  Arbutin can safely be used in both your morning and nighttime routine. It should be applied after cleansing but before your moisturizer.

• How is arbutin different than hydroquinone?

  Arbutin and hydroquinone are both ingredients that can help brighten the skin. However, hydroquinone damages cells that make melanin and pigmentation, while arbutin stops the enzymes that make cells that produce pigmentation.