Fragrance Review: Chanel – Nº5 Eau Première
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Flankers (fragrances that are a “twist” on another scent) vary from their original pillars in a myriad of ways. Some are so similar to the original you wonder why the house even bothered making them. Others are so different you actually wonder why they weren’t released under a different name.
Chanel Nº5′s flankers don’t fall on either extreme. They’re all very recognizable variations of Nº5′s core scent, while also being different enough to state an unique personality. As a fan of the line, I can say I like them all, but if I had to pick a favourite… it might be Eau Première.
Mục lục
Review
Chanel Nº5 (EdP)‘s “opera” features a baroque sense of grandeur, with its intense accords led by the “soprano” notes of aldehydes. It is a breathtaking scent, or a tiresome one, depending on one’s mood. Aware of that, and of modern preference shifting towards lighter scents, Chanel prompted then in-house perfumer Jacques Polge to create a new take on the classic. In 2007¹, Nº5 Eau Première was launched.
Here, we still “hear” the Nº5 melody, but in a new arrange. The aldehydes, although present, sparkle their aria briefly at the opening, before blending in with the other notes in a soft hum. The floral heart remains, but inky oakmoss is removed from the base, and, probably standing as Eau Première’s main characteristic, the vanilla is amplified. It takes center stage alongside Nº5′s signature bouquet, and I’ll make a small parenthesis here to gush talk about this accord.
This is one of the most gorgeous takes on vanilla I’ve ever encountered in a perfume. Interestingly, it doesn’t smell edible at all, but it keeps vanilla’s other characteristics – warmth, smoothness and slight spicyness – with amazing quality and finesse. Supported by ylang-ylang and sandalwood, it gives this scent a velvety, almost buttery texture, making it just as cosy as sophisticated.
If Nº5 (EdP) is an opera, Eau Première is its symphonic version. Still layered, refined and emotion-evoking, but less dramatic and more mellifluous. Any hint of sharpness that peeked from the aldehydic florals in the EdP is completely smoothed over here. The result has less impact, but manages to feel even plusher, gentler and easier to wear.
Fragrance Impressions
Notes: (Top) neroli, aldehydes, ylang-ylang; (Heart) rose, jasmine; (Base) vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood.
Colour Impression: Vanilla Yellow.
Evokes: A vanilla-colored cashmere wrap; a traditional room in light colours; Christmas lights, scented candles & a mug of warm white chocolate.
Similar to: Chanel Nº5 (EdP); Bvlgari Goldea.
Season & Occasion: Spring-winter, perfect for autumn. Elegant and cozy.
Conclusion
Still mature and sophisticated, Eau Première is more tender and soft-spoken than Nº5 EdP, with focus on vanillic notes for a creamy, comforting effect. It’s a timeless scent, fit for a ballgown and a knit blanket by the fireplace alike, filled with warmth, optimism and elegance.
If you like old-school perfumes, Nº5 in particular, there’s a great chance you’ll love Eau Première. If vintage style is not your cup of tea, I still strongly reccomend you give it a try – wait a bit for the aldehydes to subside, get to the vanilla-ylang drydown, and you may find yourself also enjoying this true gem of a fragrance.
I give this perfume solid 5 stars, as it is a refined work of art as well as a lovely scent to wear. One of the most beautiful fragrances I’ve ever had the joy to encounter.
¹ In 2015, the fragrance was relaunched, slightly more vanillic (yay!) and in the classic Chanel bottle (double yay!).
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