How To Spot Fake Chanel Bags

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Chanel is one of the most luxurious brands and a personal favourite of ours. Chanel is also a brand that is heavily copied, with a fake Chanel bag costing up to hundreds of pounds which can be difficult for the untrained eye to spot. Each Chanel handbag requires a thorough handbag authentication by experts, but there are some key things to look out for when authenticating a Chanel bag so you can avoid spending money on something with no value.

1. Serial Numbers

The first thing to look at is the authenticity code, which all genuine bags come with. For example, codes on a Chanel Classic 2.55 will be in the front left corner of the bag, and should always match the serial number inside the bag. Each serial number reflects when the bag was made – if a brand-new code has a serial number or sticker which reflected an older model, this will indicate a fake Chanel bag.

However, it’s important to note that in the pre-owned market, people with larger collections may misplace the authentication card or muddle the wrong card with the wrong item. Therefore, verification can’t solely rely on serial numbers and authentication cards alone.

We have created a guide to the codes and the appearance of the sticker below:

Serial numberTime periodNumber detailSticker detail30——2020The 0 has strike through and 1 has small serifs or feet.If Chanel serial number sticker doesn’t contain either CC logo markings, an ‘X’ shape cut into the tape or iridescent speckles, it could very well be fake.29——2019If your handbag’s date code starts with 27XXXXXX, 28XXXXXX or 29XXXXXX, then it was made in mid/late 2019.28——2019Features remain unchanged from 2020

27——2019Features remain unchanged from 2020

26——2018-2019Features remain unchanged from 2020

25——2018

24——2017-2018

23——2016-2017

22——2016Serial number is printed on a white sticker that is covered with transparent tape, with two Chanel logos above the serial number.The transparent tape has “CHANEL” printed vertically on the right side and a dark vertical line running down the left side.21——2015-2016

20—–2014-20150’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs, which means feet.Between 2005 to the present day Chanel have adopted an eight-digit serial number. This is printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos. “CHANEL” is printed on right hand side of the sticker and a dark line is printed along the left side of sticker. The sticker is flecked with gold speckles. The sticker has two lines in a cross across the sticker which stops the sticker from being removed without damage.19——201418——2013 – 201417——2012 – 201316——201215——201114——2010 – 201113——2009 – 201012——2008 – 200911——2006 – 200810——2005 – 20069——2004 – 20050’s have strikethroughs. 1’s have small serifs (feet).Between 1999 – 2002 Chanel used a seven-digit serial number which was printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos. “CHANEL” is printed on right hand side of the sticker and a dark line is printed along the left side of sticker. The sticker is flecked with gold speckles. The sticker has two lines in a cross across the sticker which stops the sticker from being removed without damage.8——2003 to 20047——2002 to 20036——2000 to 20025——1997 to 19990’s have strikethroughs up to 51——. 0’s have no strikethroughs from 52—— to 56——. 0’s have strikethroughs from 57—— on. 1’s have small serifs from 57—— on.1997 – 1999 the seven-digit serial number was printed on white sticker covered with clear tape with two Chanel logos from 57—— on. “CHANEL” is printed on right hand side of the sticker and a dark line is printed along the left side of sticker. The sticker is flecked with gold speckles. The sticker has two lines in a cross across the sticker which stops the sticker from being removed without damage.4——1996 to 19970’s have strikethroughs. 1’s are sans-serifs which means they have no feet1994 – 1997 a seven-digit serial number was printed on white sticker with Chanel logos. An opaque film covers sticker.3——1994 to 19962——1991 to 19940’s have no strikethroughs up to 27——. 1’s have serifs.1991 – 1994 have a seven-digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos. An opaque film covers sticker.1——1989 to 19910’s have no strikethroughs. 1’s have serifs.Between 1989 – 1991 a seven-digit serial number was printed on white sticker with Chanel logos and the left-sided was cut-out. Opaque film covers sticker.0——1986 to 19880’s have no strikethroughs. 1’s have serifs.The earliest serial number was a seven-digit serial number printed on white sticker with Chanel logos and the left-sided cut out. An opaque film covers sticker. The early serial numbers which start with a 1 or 2 did not have a leading “0”, this meant they were a six-digit serial numbers. The earlier stickers in this series were larger than the stickers produced later in this time period.

Authenticity Card

The Chanel authenticity card itself should have:

A gold border – not a rainbow effect. The gold should be the same tone as the gold numbering.

If the bag was made after 2005, the card should have a grey circle in the top right corner.

A bag with a serial number dated pre-2005 that has a card featuring the grey circle, will most likely be a fake Chanel bag.

To the untrained eye, the font and spacing of the gold lettering will seem unimportant, but to experts, it is an indication of a fake. Fakes are typically messy in style and care won’t have been taken to ensure continuity and symmetry across the sizing and formation of each letter and number.

We take care to feel the thickness and texture of each Chanel authenticity card. Whilst the age of this card can impact its condition, we are cautious of cards that are too thin or bendy as they typically indicate a fake.

Additionally, care cards are a good indicator of an authentic Chanel bag, as many counterfeiters will overlook these small details and craft them out of inferior materials that don’t match the quality of Chanel’s. It is common for people to lose the card and care guides which come with the bag, so we do not rely on these to prove authenticity and use additional methods as well as the serial numbers.

Leather

There are two types of leather that a real Chanel bag uses the most, which are luxurious and identifiable.

Leather material

Real Chanel Lambskin leather is soft to the touch and feels high quality whereas real Chanel Caviar skin, made from pebbled calf leather, has an iconic “bubbly” appearance and is more textured.

A fake Chanel bag cannot mimic the same level of quality with their discount prices, so low-quality leather is a quick giveaway. That being said, as counterfeiters have increased their attempts at replicating genuine Chanel’s, our trained experts also look at every individual caviar pebble, as fake Chanel bags can be subtle due to the pebbles being slightly different in size and texture.

Quilting

One of the first things we recommend looking at is quilting. A vintage Chanel bag will typically be less pronounced due to usage and natural ageing, but if the diamond quilts are too ‘flat’ or too ‘puffy’, this will indicate poor quality and signal the item is a fake Chanel bag.

Interior of the bag

Many people will overlook the interiors of Chanel handbags when authenticating them, but at Handbag Clinic we recognise the importance of this concealed area. Often, counterfeiters won’t be aware of the appropriate linings for each design and will use the wrong colour or fabric.

Hardware

When Coco Chanel originally designed the Chanel Classic 2.55 bag, the lock was rectangular with no branding. Chanel still crafts bags with a rectangular lock but the iconic CC lock is more popular in today’s market.

This iconic lock can also separate a genuine Chanel bag from a fake one. The Cs on vintage 2.55s have a flat finish and they also appear to be larger on the majority of vintage Chanel’s. Whereas more contemporary Chanel 2.55 bags have raised, rounded Cs. Replica locks can be as simple as the twist lock not moving swiftly or smoothly, as well as any form of crunch or spring indicating a cheaper mechanism and a fake.

On a Chanel logo, the right C should always overlap the left C at the top and the left C should always overlap the bottom of the right C. If the CC is gold plated, the CCs are marked with a gold plating symbol. Not all CCs are gold-plated but should always be of high quality.

Turnstile lock

On the inside of the bag you will find the turnstile lock, on the back of it you should see a back plate like the ones pictured below[1] . It’s important to assess the screws used in the back plate of a lock, as each style will have a particular screw type that will be used if the item is authentic. However, with vintage designs, it’s not unusual for the original screws to have been replaced but are a prominent feature that we look out for. Handbag Clinic will always source metal work as close as possible to the original to ensure a high-quality repair.

Zips and press studs

Zips and press studs are also another give away as the majority of Chanel bags will usually feature the following manufacturers zips:

Vintage bags (engraved on front zipper slider): Eclair, 3 C circle symbol, D, OPTI DMC, DMC, LAMPO symbol.

Vintage bags (engraved on back zipper slider if front slider is blank): CHANEL PARIS, LAMPO.

Newer bags (engraved on front zipper slider): EP, YKK.

Newer bags (engraved on back zipper slider if front slider is blank): CHANEL PARIS, LAMPO

Due to zips occasionally being completely unbranded and there being numerous zipper combinations, our Handbag Clinic Authenticators thoroughly check each zip to ensure they match the age and design of the bag perfectly. In particular, a Classic Chanel from the 27—— series will host an unbranded zip.

Above: Vintage Eclair Zip on an 80’s Classic Lambskin

Above: Modern YKK zip on a 2014 Caviar skin

Above: Lampo bulb shaped zip – All Chanel metal teethed zips should feature a Lampo Zip. This type of zip is expensive therefore replica manufacturers tend to not use branded or high quality zips such as those made by Lampo.

Above: Vintage DMC zipper with round CC zip pull

Some bags feature a CC zip pull tag, this will be a gold circle with the iconic CC’s. Fake versions of this pull tag will be poor quality and are mainly seen on vintage bags. Some designs have a leather pull tag and it should match the main material of the bag. For example, if the bag is caviar skin the leather pull tab should be caviar skin too.Above: Vintage Eclair Zip on an 80’s Classic LambskinAbove: Modern YKK zip on a 2014 Caviar skinAbove: Lampo bulb shaped zip – All Chanel metal teethed zips should feature a Lampo Zip. This type of zip is expensive therefore replica manufacturers tend to not use branded or high quality zips such as those made by Lampo.Above: Vintage DMC zipper with round CC zip pull

A simple slip up by counterfeiters can be as small as the brand of zip used on the handbag, counterfeiters now go to the extent of faking even 3rd party zip brands. The discrepancies between real and fake zips can be minute, so it takes an incredibly skilled eye to notice variations.

Snap Closure Press Studs engraving on Chanel bags has also changed over time, below are some brands used or typically seen engraving:

Vintage bags: Ficocchi (for small snap button), CHANEL (for large snap button)

Vintage and Newer bags: FLOX, CHANEL (for large snap button)

Newer bags: CHANEL PARIS (for small snap button), CHANEL (for large snap button)

Chanel Buttons

Stitching

The stitching on a Chanel should always be perfect. Each inch of Chanel stitching should have at least 10 stitches – replica manufacturers will usually be looking for quick and cheaper ways to make a fake Chanel bag therefore will usually have a stitch count of around 8 or 9. Discrepancies in stitching can be as small as the thickness of the thread or how slanted the stitches are.

High-quality stitching should also be evident in the interlocking CCs which feature on the interior of a Double Flap bag. Each C should be 9mm wide and 1.5 cm above the Chanel stamping. The stitching colour should perfectly match the interior leather of the bag. This is a mistake that replica manufacturers sometimes fail to copy perfectly and is, therefore, an obvious giveaway if an item is fake.

You can view our unmatched range of Vintage Chanel Bags

If you have any problems with your Chanel, we also offer Handbag Cleaning & Handbag Repair.

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How To Spot Fake Chanel Bags | The Handbag Clinic