I tried Chanel’s re-launched iconic Soleil Tan and it’s unlike any bronzer ever

To see it ‘live’ on much better skin than mine, have a look at Lisa Potter-Dixon’s fab IGTV; the brilliant makeup artist compares both in a very realistic way, and as a superfan of the original bronzer her enthusiasm is contagious. I was properly gripped to see what she thought of the new formula.

Now for the two elephants in the room. Firstly, there is still only one ‘universal’ shade, which many people disagree with on an inclusivity level. Secondly, the new ingredient added into the mix that’s causing so much venomous online rage is something called Hydrogenated Coconut Oil. It provides a welcomed new ‘glide’ when applying the bronzing cream, but many blame this emulsifying thickening agent for clogging pores and aggravating acne (which would give it the name ‘comedogenic’). I asked a representative at Chanel what they made of this claim, and here’s their honest answer:

“We know that there has been some concern surrounding the use of coconut oil, however the concentration of hydrogenated coconut oil used in this formula has been rigorously selected and mixed with other ingredients to ensure it is non-comedogenic. The non-comedogenic effect has been confirmed under dermatologic testing, on mix skins and oily skin.”

I trust Chanel. I trust their dermatologists. I once read an 87-page document about their skincare laboratories (I still have it on my hard-drive), which I can only describe as a love letter to nature, science, technology and sustainability, and the deeply, almost-obsessive passion they have for inner and outer skin wellbeing. They do things really well. That’s why they’re Chanel. So tearing a product apart because one ingredient gave you a pimple three years ago is absolutely your prerogative, but I don’t have time for that.

I do, however, understand some of the uproar. Life, here in SS20, has been turned upside down. People aren’t coping. Therefore small, familiar and reassuring things matter more than ever right now, helping us to keep our shit together.

For instance, a continuous supply of tonic, gin, ice and limes. Or a good jigsaw puzzle to dip in and out of. Likewise, a strategic and joyous skincare and makeup routine is so important in times of chaos, because humans crave routine. Makeup today is the every-woman’s frontline-facing PPE, and it’s just really, really bad timing that Chanel wants to mess with one of our key workers.

Will you stay with me for one more mad metaphor? This bronzer is the movie equivalent of Tim Burton’s 2005 adaptation of Charlie & The Chocolate Factory. People globally were incensed that the beloved Roald Dahl tale could be re-imagined more wonderfully than Mel Stuart’s original 1971 movie. But have you seen that version recently? Hello casual racism, gender stereotyping, shocking white-washing and colonial overtones.

In Burton’s remake, much of this tone-deaf toxicity is removed and the story is deeply more loyal to the original magical book. Sure, Burton’s isn’t as inclusive as we’d like (all the main characters are the same skintone), but it is more progressive with innovative technology (3D high-def was revolutionary back then) whilst reinvigorated our nostalgic devotion to a brilliant and unique creation.