Retinol: Cream, Serum, What it is, Benefits, How to Use

Overview

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A with many uses in skin care. It’s used to treat acne and has anti-aging effects. You can buy retinol over the counter (without a prescription) or visit your healthcare provider to discuss how retinol might best fit into your skincare routine. Your provider may prescribe medications that contain higher concentrations of retinoids than you can get over the counter.

Retinol is a topical treatment meaning you apply it on top of your skin. Retinol comes in many forms, including:

• Creams
• Gels.
• Lotions.
• Ointments.
• Serums.

Retinol is also sometimes used as an ingredient in cosmetic products.

What does retinol do for your skin?

Retinol increases skin cell production (proliferation). It helps unclog pores. Retinol also exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance.

What are the different types of retinol products?

Medications that you put on your skin are called “topical.” There are many topical retinoid products available, including:

• Adapalene (Differin®, Epiduo®).
• Alitretinoin (Panretin®).
• Bexarotene (Targretin®).
• Tazarotene (Tazorac®, Avage®).
• Tretinoin (Atralin®, Avita®, Refissa®, Renova®, Retin-A®, Tretin-X®).

How long does it take retinol to work?

Retinol starts to work in your cells right away, but it will take several weeks before you see an improvement in the look and feel of your skin. In fact, your skin condition may look worse at first as you adjust to the new regimen.

What does retinol treat?

Several over-the-counter retinol products are marketed to improve the appearance of your skin. If these don’t work, you can consult a dermatologist (a medical doctor who specializes in skin conditions) about prescription-strength products that are more effective. Studies show that topical retinoids can help treat acne and acne scars and stretch marks. Retinol also has anti-aging effects. Specifically, retinol is good for the following conditions:

Retinol for acne

Acne is a common skin condition. When your pores become blocked with dead skin cells and/or oils, you can develop blackheads, whiteheads or other types of pimples. Retinol works for acne by preventing clogged pores. You may still see pimples for the first couple of months of treatment – your skin might even look worse (this is sometimes referred to as the retinol purge). But if you stick with it, you’ll see clearer skin.

Retinol for acne scars

Acne scars develop as a result of injury and inflammation. These pink, red or dark spots on your skin can appear as your acne heals, and may last for several weeks. Additionally, picking or popping your pimples causes more injury to the skin and may leave permanent scars. Topical retinol treatments can help reduce the swelling and inflammation that come with breakouts and help prevent further breakouts. But topical retinol treatment doesn’t always work on severe acne scars that are sunken or raised.

Retinol for dark spots

Dark spots (hyperpigmentation) can develop as a result of sun damage to your skin. If you have light to dark brown spots on your face, hands, neck or arms, what you’re seeing is a buildup of melanin, which gives your skin color (pigment). Also called sun spots, age spots and liver spots, these spots are painless, but if you don’t like how they look, there are procedures and topical treatments that may help. Some people find that topical retinol lightens their skin spots, though it takes months and can be irritating to your skin. It’s a good idea to see a dermatologist (a medical doctor who specializes in conditions of the skin) if you’re concerned about dark spots.

Retinol for large pores

A pore is an opening at the surface of your skin that allows body hair and oils to pass through. When these pores become clogged with dead skin cells or oil, your pores become bigger and more noticeable. Topical retinol treats large pores by increasing skin cell turnover — which makes your skin thicker — and preventing the development of clogged pores.

Retinol for Kaposi sarcoma lesions

Kaposi sarcoma is a rare cancer that can affect people with weakened immune systems. People with Kaposi sarcoma commonly develop dark-colored patches or blotches that may be flat or bumpy. They might be blue, black, pink, red or purple. Alitretinoin is a retinoid that can slow the growth of Kaposi sarcoma cells. Though it doesn’t cure cancer, your healthcare provider may recommend applying alitretinoin gel to your Kaposi sarcoma lesions to slow their progression.

Retinol for melasma

Melasma is another common skin disorder that leads to dark spots or patches on sun-exposed areas. Exposure to light, heat and certain hormone levels increases the amount of melanin you produce, which causes these flat or freckle-like patches that are light brown, dark brown or blue-gray. Melasma is most common during pregnancy. If you’re pregnant, you should talk to your healthcare provider before using oral or topical medication or supplements. If you aren’t pregnant, a topical retinoid (tretinoin) may help fade melasma spots.

Retinol for psoriasis

Psoriasis is a skin disorder that people get with inflammation that causes new skin cells to grow too fast. The new cells build up, creating a thick, scaly rash that is pink or red. Topical retinol slows skin cell overgrowth and reduces inflammation, which may help with the rash. But since retinol can also further irritate your skin, your healthcare provider will usually recommend using retinol in combination with topical steroids.

Retinol for stretch marks

Stretch marks are scars that develop when our skin is stretched by pregnancy, weight gain, extreme weight loss or rapid muscle growth. These marks are pink, red or purple at first, and then gradually fade until they appear silver or white. Topical retinol can help make stretch marks less noticeable but talk to your healthcare provider before using them during pregnancy or while breastfeeding.

Retinol for wrinkles

A number of factors can cause wrinkles in your skin. As you age, your skin cells divide more slowly. The middle layer (dermis) of your skin begins to thin, it becomes harder to retain moisture, and your skin has less elastin and collagen. Topical tretinoin and tazarotene can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by slowing the breakdown of collagen and making your skin more elastic. It usually takes several months of topical retinol use to notice a difference.

Is retinol good for your skin?

Retinol is a powerful tool against aging skin and acne, but it’s not for everyone. If you’re prone to allergies or have sensitive skin, you might want to try skincare products with alternative anti-aging or skin-clearing ingredients. Importantly, retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight so be sure to use sunscreen and avoid the sun as much as you can while you use retinol products.